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RTS (Radio Teleswitch Service) Shutdown UpdateF.A.Q.
Updated on 14/11/24 by Abby_OVO Check out our dedicated RTS FAQs page for more information. Updated on 10/1/25 by Blastoise186 Updates to Load Managed Areas have been added RTS Shutdown Update July 2024 Hey! The name’s 186, Blastoise186 and I’m one of the Forum Volunteers who you’ve maybe seen helping around here. I’ve been working with OVO to get the most up to date information possible for you and they’ve passed over the following helpful updates and details. One of the recent hot questions we’ve seen on the Forum (for a while now) is what’s happening to RTS meters. The RTS (Radio Teleswitch Service) is shutting down soon, which especially affects complex ones like THTC (Total Heat Total Control). I’ve covered this before in one of my older posts linked below – so check that out if you’re interested in why this is happening. That post already has many questions covered, so this one will focus purely on the next steps. Radio teleswitch (RTS) shutdown sunset FAQ If you’re interested in what all the different meter types are/were - just ask below. Not sure if you’ve got RTS? No problem – give OVO a ring and they’ll be able to let you know. You can reach out to them here. All caught up? Great, let’s get started on this latest update. This is the final piece of the puzzle - the hot off the press information about exactly what’s happening next. I’d like to apologise for the extended delay in getting this out. While I can - and do - act independently of OVO, such critical content like this still has to be reviewed and approved before it can go live to make sure it’s as accurate as possible. So without further ado, the big question… I’ve got an RTS Meter, what are my options for smart meters? Good question – as you may know, these meters can be pretty complex, but OVO have spent a good amount of time updating their systems to manage this change for their customers. I’m pleased to finally reveal what OVO’s plans are for everyone with an RTS Meter, whether it be Economy 7, Economy 10, THTC (Total Heat Total Control), Total Living Control, Standard Economy & Heating Load, Heatwise, Storage Heating Control, Flexiheat, Superdeal or basically any other RTS Meter. The long story short version is exactly what many of you wanted to hear - OVO will be contacting all RTS customers to sort the change to a non RTS meter. Even better, since everything will run locally and be controlled by the meter itself, your heating and hot water will continue to work even if the signal to the meter temporarily drops out. But what will you get? If you’re ready to upgrade and your meter is listed below as upgradeable, check out smart-booking.ovoenergy.com With another supplier? Please contact their customer service team for this as OVO can only upgrade meters belonging to OVO customers. Affected OVO supported RTS Meters/Tariffs If you AREN’T in a LMA (Load Managed Area*) - * A Load Managed Area is an area that's not as easy to maintain, like small islands or densely populated communities Economy 7 Available now! All customers with an Economy 7 (both RTS and Non-RTS) are eligible for smart meters. Everything else will stay the same - it’s just a straightforward meter swap in 99% of cases. Economy 10 Available now! OVO has just started to roll out Economy 10 support on smart meters. You should have already had a letter to arrange this change, if not, give OVO a call on 0330 303 5063. All other RTS meters (THTC, Superdeal etc) Available now! Here are the 2 possible routes you could go down. Available now! Good news! In this situation, you can go for Economy 7, Economy 9, Economy 10 or a single rate meter - totally up to you. Your letter will invite you to call OVO’s specialist team who are on hand to discuss the set up within your property. They’ll help you come to a decision that best suits your lifestyle. As part of the process, your THTC meters will be taken out and replaced with a shiny new smart meter (where possible) running on whichever tariff you picked. If you ARE in a Load Managed Area Available now! Please wait for OVO to contact you! OVO has informed me that THTC is now fully ending - even for Load Managed Areas - so you’ll be contacted regarding your options. Please consider your options carefully as it’s important you make the right choice. RTS Meters/Tariffs from other suppliers No details yet - feel free to help me build this out. If you’re with any other supplier and have info on what’s happening to your meter, feel free to post the details below and if it looks good, I’ll add it here - with full credit of course. What if I don’t want a smart meter and/or refuse to have the upgrade? If you don’t want the upgrade, then the RTS Service will eventually end regardless, and I’m really sorry, but I can’t guarantee what’ll happen to your heating and/or hot water, so I strongly recommend against taking that risk. These changes must happen and must happen soon. All I can say is that many of these RTS Meters are getting older now, and while the designers did include fail-safes to cover RTS Service outages, these were only designed for short-term outages - not a total and permanent shutdown. Just as I can’t guarantee what’ll happen to your heating and hot water, OVO can’t guarantee how long the fail-safe will last for - or if it’ll even work at all on your specific meter. Forum Volunteers on The OVO Forum may also be unable to provide advice and support for these meters post end-of-life to the same extent as we have previously, which means we’ll probably recommend you go direct to smart meters. We’ll still try to help out if we can - but our options would be limited. If you have any further questions, please do leave a comment and one of the OVO moderators will chase this up for us.
Dashboard for Home UsageBlog
With the raft of online apps and services now in everyday use, I had begun to get frustrated that for some simple things (like thermostats, energy usage and security cameras) it was necessary to open a whole array of different programs. I stumbled across the concept of gathering these together under one service and now have a very easy, comprehensive option via something called Home Assistant (HA). (available on mobile app and pc) Although it has been many years since I did any real programming, I decided to try out this system and have found it a lot easier to put together and operate than I expected. First of all, I need to say that it is often not totally without cost. The system can be run on an existing computer but as the service really needs to be running all the time, most people tend to use some sort of minicomputer. I used something called a Raspberry Pi. This is a small electronics board – which can be bought as a full system or piece by piece – which links to your broadband router and subsequently the other services which you are running on the same network. For some of the services, there is an ‘auto-discovery’ mode which searches for Bluetooth or Wi-Fi signals and offers these to link to your device. Once you begin to have some options to look at, the next thing to consider is what sort of view or ‘Dashboard’ might be useful. There are multiple designs ready to be populated and you can choose several which can be chosen depending on what you want to view. Ultimately, you will settle on a default view which will be ready when you open the app. These can all be changed as much as you want as you discover new items to add but at present, I can see a whole host of sensors I have around the home including; Electrical import/export, Gas usage, Tariff values (at time of use), Temperature and Humidity (in various rooms), Solar PV generation, Battery storage levels, Mains Voltage and Frequency, Doorbell cameras, Key appliance operation (Washing Machine, Dishwasher etc). All of these can be monitored and, in some cases, even controlled as you might want to automate usage at cheaper energy price levels. There’s lots of helpful information available via a user and programmer community and it becomes a fun thing to see what else you can add to the system.
Upcoming Heat Pump Plus Trial
What is it? We’re launching the UK's first nationwide heat pump flexibility trial, where heat pumps automatically reduce energy use during peak demand without affecting your comfort or heating. This trial will help us understand how we can use smart tech to improve the grid for a greener future. We'll be offering this trial from mid November throughout winter . We’ll be collecting data about energy consumption and how this level of flexibility impacts customers. We’re working with Nesta , the UK’s social innovation agency. Nesta’s aim is to find new ways to tackle society's big problems in education, the environment and health. Customers who take part in the trial, which includes completing a few surveys and interviews, will receive a £100 shopping voucher from Nesta at the end of the trial period. Who is eligible? To take part in the trial customers will need to have a compatible Vaillant aroTHERM 3 post 2016 or an aroTHERM Plus heat pump with a connected myVAILLANT Connect internet gateway. Entry to the trial is by invitation only. You can apply to join the Trial by completing the form linked from your OVO invitation email. You’ll also need to be signed up to our Heat Pump Plus tariff and be an OVO customer. You’ll also need to agree to OVO controlling the temperature of your heat pump remotely during the trial period. What will you need to do? You'll be asked to provide feedback during the trial period so we can see how effective it is. If you take part, you’ll get a detailed survey before and after the trial, and then short weekly questionnaires. You might also be invited to take part in interviews. What will you get? You’ll get a £100 gift voucher for taking part in the trial and giving us your feedback. Any further questions, please let us know below.
The Mysteries of LegionellaBlog
I am not a biologist; in fact it is nearly 50 years since I passed my Biology “O” Level. HOWEVER I would like to be re-assured that if I make changes to my heating system I will not compromise my family’s safety and well being. The following I have gleaned from various sources on the Internet. If you disagree great, but PLEASE supply the basis for your differing view. I’m afraid “a mate down the pub said” will not wash. What is Legionella? From the NHS website: Legionnaires' disease is a lung infection you can get from inhaling droplets of water from things like air conditioning or hot tubs. It's uncommon but it can be very serious. You can get Legionnaires' disease if you breathe in tiny droplets of water containing bacteria that cause the infection. It's usually caught in places like hotels, hospitals or offices where the bacteria have got into the water supply. It's less common to catch it at home. Where does it come from? From the CDC Website: Legionella bacteria occur naturally in freshwater environments, like lakes and streams. Generally, the low amounts of these bacteria in freshwater don't lead to disease. However, Legionella can pose a risk to health when it gets into building water systems and grows (increases in numbers). How does it grow? The bacterium is adapted to take advantage of a warm blooded host, so it is not surprising that it likes warm damp environments. Like Goldilocks it likes it not to warm and not too cold, not too acid or alkali, and it like to be left undisturbed. The Heat Geek provides a much better introduction than I can (and with much better graphics) so have a read of his article. I found it quite difficult to actual find information on how fast Legionella bacteria can grow. I found two sources. The first links to a no longer available blog. The second a paper is on researchgate.net Both seem to point to the bacteria doubling every 8 hours (10 times per day, 1000 times every three days, a million times per week!). So it is easy to see that a stagnant tank of water, sitting at the ideal temperature (around 40°C) with ample nutrients and the correct ph will become a breeding ground for the bacteria. Will my low temperature heating make this worse? Well yes, and no! There is a belief that in the past we set our hot water cylinders to 60°C and all was fine. However a survey by the Department for Energy security and net zero showed that few installations actually operate at 60°C. So in reality many existing systems could have had problems. However it should be recognised that fitting a larger cylinder (fewer volume changes per day) filled with cooler water should increase the likelihood of Legionella bacteria growing. Is there legislation? Again yes and no. The current legislation applies to industrial and commercial installations but is not strictly applicable to domestic installations. The building regulations (part G) specify maximum water delivery temperatures to prevent scalding. These limit the delivery water temperature to 60°C or even 48°C. Is my copper cylinder safer? Not really. It is true that copper (and silver) ions inhibit and destroy bacteria, but the required ion concentrations are not present in typical copper cylinders or pipe-work. (New) copper pipe is often cited as the best option for pipe-work, however the advantages of copper appear to result from the smooth nature of the pipe-work and not its bactericide properties. After a few years the build up of oxide or calcification removes copper’s initial advantages. Should I use a pasteurisation cycle? Advantages: Resets (most) of the cylinder contents to sterile. Remember that the coil and/or immersion heater doesn’t reach to the bottom of the cylinder. A 200l cylinder may only have 180l of usable hot water; the remainder sits below the coil/immersion. Disadvantage: One day a week you get really hot water. Don’t forget that if the turnover of hot water is small, bacteria will still grow (from a lower starting point?) throughout the period between pasteurisation cycles. Should I worry about my Combi boiler? Not really. The stored hot water volume in a combi boiler is tiny by comparison and is basically flushed through every time you run any hot water. What’s the answer? Sorry I don’t have one! Heat stores seem to be one solution, since they have small delivery volumes and hence rapid water turn-over and flushing. BUT to achieve satisfactory performance many stores needs to operate at around 70°C, so there wasn’t an issue anyway! Sizing hot water cylinders to match daily demand would ensure frequent flushing of the cylinder, but regulations seem to require cylinders to be sized for the property and potential occupants rather than the actual occupants. So empty nesters and retirees are often persuaded to have much larger cylinders than they actually need. The Heat Geek mini store seems to offer one option, but I would like to see a larger version and more “scientific” tests.
Diary of an ASHP install - Part 2Blog
The Install Week On the lead up to our installation date for our Heat Pump (HP), we had everything in place: Space outside clear for the heat pump itself Internal loft space for the pipework and any system parts A clear space inside around the existing boiler for removal Storage space for the pipes, insulation and other equipment (being delivered on the first morning) I got a text message from the lead installer on Sunday evening letting me know that he would be arriving at 8am on the Monday morning. He was actually early and supervised the off loading of the delivered equipment. This can take a little time as there is often quite a lot of items alongside the heat pump itself which need agreeing as scheduled items and delivered. Other trades were due shortly and so we walked the install route around the property from the HP position, through the loft access, existing pipework, boiler, radiators (6 out of 12 to be replaced), gas supply point and electricity supply. One of the things I particularly liked was the willingness to listen to options. For example, I had been exploring the possibility of a different route for the main power cable for the heat pump compared to that discussed on survey. The plumber and electrician arrived shortly after this and set to work – first task, drain down the heating system and identify the radiators for swapping out. The gas engineer was due to arrive on the second day but as the team were ready to remove the old boiler, they got in touch with a nearby colleague and the boiler was taken out and the gas capped. So by the end of day 1, things were moving and there was no boiler and no hot water (the team had brought electric heaters to help heat overnight. Top left - void under house (cable run option) Top right - suggested position for HP Bottom left - hot water tank position Bottom right - first cable and pipework to HP Day 2 and Day 3 were similar in operation and by this time much of the pipework was in place (but not lagged) and the radiators were almost done. While much of the install was step by step, the team worked well together so that any needed work was done (plumb, cable, power, test) for each section to be completed before moving on to the next. Originally the cabling was due to follow existing primaries into the loft and then out to a small distribution board for connection but as I mentioned earlier, the property is built with a void underneath (local geology) and as this looked to be a straight route from incoming power to HP location, I suggested they try to feed the cables through the void. This was eventually successful but it did take a few floorboard removals to stop snags on the way. The heat pump itself was needed to be carried into position – quite a weight. We have gravel across the front of the property and the team did not have any mechanical lifting device anyway so they carried it between them around from the delivery location to the installation position at the rear. By the end of Day 3, much was done but the final wiring to the HP was not completed and so we remained without heat and hot water for another day. The hot water tank does have an immersion heater built in and I had expected that to be available mid week but I understand that the control for this is via the HP and so as the wiring was not in place, neither was power for the immersion option. Day 4 was taken up checking all joints, powering and running the system and then lagging. Each part of the system is checked individually and then full control. This type of set up defaults to Hot Water and once that is up to temperature a diverter valve switches the hot water to the heating loop and radiators. A look through the operating system with its schedules for heating and hot water led me to get a few things initially in place and everyone was expecting to be finished – the lead installer was due early on Day 5 to ensure everything was ok. I woke up in the early hours of Day 5 as the HP sounded to be working full out. The house temperature had also risen to 23 degrees C despite the overnight setting being 18. At that time of the morning I was not fully ‘with it’ and so eventually after a couple of system resets, I turned off the Hot Water as that appeared to be the only thing which allowed the HP to get back to a normal operation. Once morning arrived fully, our lead installer drove up and I greeted him with the news of the overnight problem. Calling the electrician to check all the connections, terminals etc., it was finally concluded that the diverter valve was faulty and would need replacing. They located one about 45 mins drive away and set to collect and return. It was this valve which was open to the heating loop although the system was calling for hot water, hence the issues with the higher overnight temperature. Well on return, the new Honeywell valve was fitted and the system tested. It all worked. So all in all, an interesting installation week. Obviously there is a need to be aware of the potential length of the install plus the lack of heating and hot water for at least some of the time. Something to be aware of. Now to explore the control options and get it set up how I want (See my pre-install experience here)
Diary of an ASHP install - Part 1Blog
As often happens, a second generation of new technology provides better results for the user and so, although installers and training still require some updating, we decided to make use of the offers currently in place and see what was involved for a Heat Pump installation. For qualifying properties and systems, there is a Government grant of £7,500 (BUS) and we went with a scheme which also allowed a ‘free’ survey (£200 payment which either is refunded or goes towards the final cost of install) and an opt out right up to the days before installation. Our survey was arranged in a few days and a surveyor arranged an appointment to measure and review the property. The survey suggested a heat loss just under 9kW and so the plans revolved around a 9kW heat pump installation. We currently use a condensing gas boiler for our heating and hot water and part of the survey looks at the pipework and radiators to check their suitability. Our outcome was that the pipework was ok but 6 out of 12 radiators would need upgrading - another benefit to our timing of the exploration was that the cost of the new radiators and installation would be covered in the overall quote. Positioning of the heat pump was the next consideration as there are regulations on noise levels and property borders. Planning considerations are also needed to be reviewed along with cabling for the electrical supply and positioning of the hot water cylinder. Further requirements might be materials in situ, especially with an older property and so possible additional surveys might be required. A property EPC (energy performance certificate) is also a requirement of the government grant. Many properties will already have this in place but as we have been resident for almost 20 years and no plans to move, ours didn’t have this in place. It is quick and easy to get this updated. Applying for the grant, planning permission (if required), additional surveys, other changes to existing pipework can be a fair bit to cope with but again, with our offer, much of this was organised by our supplier. One other trigger for us to look at swapping our heating system was that a review of recent years showed that approximately 96% of our property’s carbon emissions were the result of our gas usage. Ultimately we decided to go ahead, after researching other installs and so in a few weeks time, we will be having our system installed. Part 2 will look at the install itself.
AIR SOURCE HEATPUMP -HIGH ENERGY USE -LONG LAG TIME -No INSTANT HOME HEAT
After using my 11kw TRIAQUA air source heat pump of and on for 10 years I found it a useless match to our daily living routines. We live in the Alps at 780 metres and had temperatures from as low as minus 24 Celsius to as high as +10 on cold Winter nights generally December and January are the coldest months. In order to get any warmth and comfort in our home in Winter we had to leave the pump running 24 hours 7 days a week which goes against all our inclinations to save energy. In our first year of operation we had a bill of 2600 Euros to heat our house at temperatures of somewhat less than 20 degrees. Our preference is to sleep in a cold room and to have our sitting room at around 24 degrees when it is minus 10 or below outside. In the morning for breakfast after we rise we are looking for 20-24 degrees instantly in the main sitting room and adjoining kitchen. We found none of the above was achievable at a sustainable cost using our heat pump which is supposed to have a COP of 2.8 from memory. At minus 2 our heat pump simply switches to the back- up internal electric heating element which runs at about 3 kw power usage. For us that works more efficiently than the pure air sourced power unit. But neither can ever achieve 24 Celsius in our main living areas when the outside temperatures are anywhere in the minus range. All in all if we had SOLAR generating above 5kw of power we would be better off just having an electric powered boiler and forgetting about using the heat pump full stop. We did not want to install Solar or wind power because Solar requires sun and that does not shine at night when we need most power so we then need storage batteries and the average windspeed in our valley was then less than 2 metres /sec. We solved our comfort needs by installing a 23 kw Swedish wood burner 16kw to the boiler and 7 kw to our main living room and connecting this into the heat pump radiator system. Our wood cost is 1000 Euros a year with mostly 24 degrees in the living area and background heat in the bedrooms for sleeping. Now we switch the heat pump on for one day a year for testing only. DOES ANYONE HAVE SIMILAR EXPERIENCES WITH AIR SOURCE HEATPUMPS?
Complex meter: Refused Economy 7?
Hello, we bought our current flat a few months ago and found out that Ovo is our electricity supplier. It is an all electric property, with electric immersion heater for hot water and electric storage heaters. This flat was designed around off peak electricity. There are 2 electricity meters, one so called white meter just for the off-peak circuit (storage heaters plus immersion water heater) and one for everything else, each with a separate MPAN number. The off peak meter turns the off peak circuit on and off, so that water heater and storage heaters only have power at night, it is the RTS type. When we moved in, Ovo created 2 account numbers, one for each meter and put each on the single rate tariff (without consulting or giving options). This means that we have to pay the standing charge twice and we have to pay expensive rate for hot water and heating. I have contacted Ovo multiple times (calls and chat) asking to: have only one account with one standing charge be moved onto some type of off-peak tariff (Economy 7 or something else) I was told that neither is possible. I was told that they cannot merge the two accounts and that they cannot put me on Economy 7, because I have the two meter set up (complex meter). Also, I wasn’t offered migrating to a 5-port smart meter with Economy 7 as a solution - I only came across it on this forum. I don’t understand this. Why can’t they offer some kind of peak / off-peak tariff to me? I know about the shut down of RTS signal next year and the push to smart meters. However, switching to a smart meter is not useful for us if they refuse to change our tariff. Also, I think we should only be paying one standing charge, as these two MPANs are associated (it is one household). Can you please advise? What are our options?
Complex Multi-Rate Meter & Heating typesF.A.Q.
Updated on 17/01/25 by Abby_OVO Update on RTS shutdown: As part of the RTS Project development, we are really happy to share with you our progress: As you may be aware, the RTS signal that instructs some of our meters when to move to the “Off Peak Period” will be closing down soon and we need to arrange for all of our RTS customers to have a meter exchange so they don’t lose any of their meter functionality. The RTS signal will end for our customers on 30 June 2025. The period between 1 July - 30 September 2025 will then be used to close-down the RTS signal and allow us to manage any unexpected customers impacted. After a very successful pilot, from the 17th June 2024 we will begin writing to our Economy 10 RTS customers to invite them to call us to arrange for their meter exchange. We are continuing to work at pace to enable the same solution for the majority of our other RTS customers and our aim is to begin writing to these customers from Aug 2024. We will continue to update you on our progress. Multi-rate meters are also sometimes known as ‘complex’ or ‘exotic’ meters These older types of meter are being phased out and support for them will be ending soon. If you have one of these meters, and think you’ll be affected, don’t worry- we’ll be in touch to arrange an upgrade to make sure your heating and hot water keeps working properly. So, what is an ‘exotic meter type’ and why is support for some of these meters ending? Let’s find out more... We’re saying goodbye to Radio Teleswitch Meters (RTS Meter) and Dynamically Teleswitched Meters (DTS Meter). Support is ending for old electric meters that use Radio Teleswitches. The Radio Teleswitch System (or RTS) was created to help with electricity meters that had special tariffs (such as Economy 7) before smart meters came along. Even though it has a few features that are seen in today’s smart meters , such as automatically turning heating or hot water on or off, it isn’t quite as smart. It can’t send us your meter readings remotely to make sure your bills are correct. RTS Meters (sometimes known as Dynamically Teleswitched Meters), are old meter types. A Radio Teleswitch device would also be installed, alongside the electricity meter, to pick up the RTS signals and control the time switching features on the meter. The shutdown of the RTS service would mean that the teleswitching features, to allow electricity meters to be switched between tariff rates and to allow the switching of electrical loads such as heaters, would completely stop working. Older meter types aren’t being installed by suppliers anymore, and many of these meters are reaching their end (certifications). Here are some of the RTS/DTS tariffs: Economy 7* Economy 10 * Total Heat Total Control Weathercall HeatWise WarmWise Storage Heat Control White Meter Superdeal Flexiheat Comfort Plus Comfort Plus Control Twin Heat *Economy 7 or 10 meters with controlled load. Controlled load is a special type of electricity rate, or tariff, for high-energy appliances. It's ideal for things that use a lot of energy, like underfloor heating or hot water systems.* Want to find out more about this topic? Why not check out this helpful FAQ: Don’t forget- If you have a meter that’s affected, we’ll be in touch to arrange a meter and tariff upgrade to keep your heating and hot water working. Exotic Tariffs Storage heating control (SHC) With Storage Heating Control you usually have two separate meters. One meter records energy used during the off-peak periods, and the other records all other electricity used. Customers save the most if they have storage heating and hot water. These heat up during the off-peak times, on the cheaper rate, to last throughout the day. The standard meter records all the domestic usage (cooking, lights, electronic devices) in a home. There are no off-peak times for any domestic use, and these appliances can be used at any time. What about heating and hot water? SHC was designed to work with storage heaters. To benefit from the off-peak price, the storage heating and hot water would need to be connected to the off-peak meter. If you have this type of meter and are unsure if yours is connected, an electrician can check this for you. Out of off-peak times, any appliances connected to the off-peak meter won’t operate, so SHC isn’t suitable for direct acting heating, such as a towel rail or underfloor heating. As long as the storage heaters are connected to the off-peak meter, they’ll come on automatically during off-peak periods. SHC offers 8 hours per day for customers to charge their storage heaters and heat their hot water. At least 3 of these hours will be available from between 10pm and 10am. There’s also a minimum of 2 hours between 10am and 10pm. The times do vary which means we can’t give a customer the exact times their off-peak will operate. But, as long as the heating and hot water is connected to the off-peak meter, they should automatically come on when the cheaper rate is available. SHC doesn’t offer a cheaper rate for domestic appliances, which means regardless of the time these appliances are being used, they’ll always be charged at the standard rate. Dimplex Quantum storage heaters work in the same way as standard night storage heaters, by charging up during off-peak times at a cheaper rate. Quantum heaters have thermostats and a digital programmer, which means that operating them is much more ‘hands-free’. You can choose the times of the day when the heat can be released, and you can also choose the temperature. The heater automatically works out how much to charge overnight. A fan helps to draw air through the heater and warm up the room when the thermostat senses that the temperature has dropped. Quantum heaters are better insulated than older models, meaning that less heat escapes when it isn’t needed. This is better for both your wallet and the planet. Input/Output Dial Storage Heaters work by storing heat made by cheap off-peak electricity and releasing it during the day. An input setting allows customers to control the amount of heat that the heater stores during off-peak hours. The higher the setting the more heat is stored, but this also means running costs will be higher. An output setting allows a customer to control the amount of heat that the storage heater releases. The higher the setting, the quicker the heat is released into the room. The recommendation is to keep the output setting low when heat isn’t needed (like in the night or when the home is empty). Total Heating Total Control (THTC) How many meters? THTC is usually a two meter set up. Although pay as you go THTC meters normally only have one meter. What does it do? With THTC you normally have two meters with one rate on each. One meter records all of the domestic usage at the property (lights, sockets etc) and the other records the usage from the heating and hot water in the home. On the heating control meter there is the stored circuit which gives a customer between 5 & 12 hours daily based on the weather forecast to store heat, and around 5 hours 45 minutes to heat water daily. Because the off peak times are determined in part by the weather forecast we are unable to tell a consumer exactly when the peak/off peak hours are. There is also the 24 hour off peak circuit, this is for any additional heating and hot water in the home, panel heaters, focal point fires, electric towel rails, electric showers, and to boost hot water. What about heating and hot water? THTC was designed to work with storage heaters, and they should charge automatically during the off peak hours, along with the hot water. As long as any additional heating appliances are connected to the 24 hour circuit, they will be charged at the lower rate regardless of what time they are being used. This is not something we are able to check for a customer, they would need a private electrician to tell them what is wired where. To find out more about THTC and SHC please check out our helpful guide on the website . Superdeal Superdeal is usually a one meter set up. It is only available in the Meter Point Administration Number (MPAN) 20 area. Unsure what your MPAN number is or who your Distribution Network Operator is? Check out our handy Tutorial below: What does it do? With Superdeal you get one meter which has three rates of electricity; Day rate, Night rate, and Off-peak rate. The Day rate records energy used between 7am and midnight, the night records domestic (lights, electrical appliances, sockets) energy between midnight and 7am, the stored records for 5 hours overnight and has a 2 hour afternoon boost. Superdeal provides 7 hours of off peak electricity over 2 periods for heating and hot water appliances. It provides a 7 hour off peak period overnight for all domestic appliances. What about heating and hot water? Superdeal was designed to work with storage heating, a customer receives 5 hours of charge over night for their storage heaters and hot water, and an additional 2 hours afternoon boost. During these 7 hours, the heating and hot water should automatically come on. This meter is handy for customers who need to top up their heat during the day so they have enough for the evening, if they have older heaters or if they are at home and use their stored heat frequently throughout the day. Flexiheat Flexiheat is designed to work with electric storage heating The tariff offers 7 hours of cheaper, off-peak electricity for stored heat Energy used outside of the off-peak times costs more at the standard rate, so if you have this set up we’d encourage you to use more during the cheaper times Usually not suitable for homes with Gas or Oil heating How does it work? With Flexiheat you get one meter which has three rates. One rate records all the electricity you use during the day, another records all of the electricity you use during the evening and weekend period, and the third measures all the electricity you use during the 7 hours of stored heat. Flexiheat works by storing up heat and hot water using the lowest possible rate of electricity. All the electricity you use during the off-peak times is charged at the cheaper rate, not just your heating and hot water. When are the cheaper off-peak times? A consumer is supplied with 7 hours at the cheapest rate for stored heat. At least two of those hours will be during the day - which tops up heating and hot water. They would also benefit from cheaper electricity for all domestic appliances used on weekdays between 7:30pm to 7.30am, and weekends from Friday 7.30pm to Monday 7.30am. In addition to this, Flexiheat customers benefit from cheaper electricity for all domestic appliances used between 24 December and 1st January. There is more information about Flexiheat and Superdeal here . Heatwise Heatwise is designed to work with electric storage heating. It can be a 1 or 2 meter setup which is only found in MPAN 11. The meter(s) generally have a combined 3 or 4 rates and provide 10 hours of off peak electricity for hard wired heating and water appliances. It’s usually not suitable for homes with Gas or Oil heating How does it work? All the electricity used during the off-peak times is charged at the cheaper rate, not just heating and hot water. When are the cheaper off-peak times? Afternoons Monday to Friday – 3 hours between 1pm and 4.30pm Afternoons Saturday and Sunday – 3 hours between 1pm and 5.30pm Evenings Monday to Sunday – 2 hours between 5.30pm and 10pm Night’s Monday to Friday – 5 hours between midnight and 7am Night’s Saturday and Sunday – 5 hours between midnight and 8am Economy 10 Economy 10 provides 10 hours of off-peak electricity for everything in the home and can be suitable for a number of electric heating systems, including wet electric central heating and storage heaters. Storage heaters will automatically store at the off-peak times on the lower rate. Electric immersion water heaters will also usually heat automatically during the off-peak hours and you may want to install an external timer to regulate when and for how long the water heats. The off-peak hours offered with an Economy 10 plan add up to 10 hours during each 24-hour period – which is why this plan is known as Economy 10. (MPAN) 10,11,12, 14,15,16,19,20, 21, 22, 23 (Traditional, Pay as you go & Smart) 12.00am - 5.00am 1.00pm - 4.00pm 8.00pm - 10.00pm (GMT) 1.00am - 6.00am 2.00pm - 5.00pm 9.00pm - 11.00pm (BST) 18 & 13 (Traditional) 4:30am - 7:30am 1:00pm - 4:00pm 8:30pm - 12:30am (Paygo & Smart) 4:30am - 7:30am 1:00pm - 4:00pm 8:30pm - 12:30am (GMT) 5:30am - 8:30am 2:00pm - 5:00pm 9:30pm - 01:30am (BST) 17 (Traditional) 4:30am - 7:30am 1:30pm - 4:30pm 8:30pm - 12:30am (Pay as you go and Smart) 4:30am - 7:30am 1:30pm - 4:30pm 8:30pm - 12:30am (GMT) 5:30am - 8:30am 2:30pm - 5:30pm 9:30pm - 01:30am (BST)
The Smart Export Guarantee (SEG) - Getting paid for the energy you export to the grid - FAQsTutorial
Updated on 17/01/25 by Emmanuelle_OVO: Interested in getting Solar Panels? Find out more here: OVO are now installing Solar! 😁​​​ Have you got Charge Anytime & Solar Panels? SEG - Smart Export Guarantee - Your FAQs What is the Smart Export Guarantee (SEG)? The Smart Export Guarantee (SEG) gives micro-generators (such as homes with solar panels) the chance to earn money for every kWh of energy they export to the national grid. This replaces the Feed in Tariff (FIT), which was closed to new applicants in 2019. The key difference between the FIT scheme and SEG that generator are only paid for the energy they export on SEG rather than the energy they generate as well, as they were with FIT. Who can sign up to the SEG tariff? Generators (or homeowners) who own one of the following technology systems; anaerobic digestion, hydro, micro-combined heat and power (with an electrical capacity of 50kW or less), onshore wind, and solar photovoltaic exporters with up to 5MW. In order to apply for SEG you mustn’t be receiving FIT export payments, however your FIT generation payments can be continued if even if your export payments are relinquished. How much can I be paid via SEG from OVO ? The SEG tariff is decided by supplier so unlike FIT this may differ between suppliers. Here are the details of the current OVO SEG payments: Name of Tariff Price per kWh Technology Type System Size Initial Contract Length OVO SEG Tariff (AET20) 4.00p/kWh All eligible technologies Solar, Anaerobic Digestion, Hydro, Wind up to 5MW capacity, Up to 50kW for Micro-combined heat and power (Micro-CHP) 12 months When does my SEG contract start? Your contract starts once an Export MPAN has been set up and we have received your first export meter reading. The initial contract term is 12 months. Can I switch to OVO's SEG if I already receive FIT payments? If you receive the Feed-in Tariff from OVO, then you are able to sign up to SEG, but your Feed in Tariff export payments will stop. If you did want to opt in or out of the Feed-in Tariff export payments, just be aware under the regulation of the scheme you can only do this once every 12 months. If you currently receive FIT payments from another supplier you can sign up to SEG with OVO, but your Feed in Tariff export payments will stop with your current supplier. You’ll need to let them know before you sign up to SEG. Where can I find the application forms? You can find our application form and supporting documents guide here. Once completed you’ll need to email this (as well as the supporting documents) to our SEG team at seg@ovoenergy.com. They’ll review your application and if eligible you’ll receive a welcome email confirming the tariff and payment information within 6 weeks of applying. When do I need to give a reading? We request export readings 4 times a year: March June September December As a SEG customer, you will be sent a read reminder with a link to provide your reading via an online form. You need to take the reading from your export or smart meter - if you’re unsure of how to do this, you would need to contact the installer or energy supplier. If it’s an OVO smart meter, see this guide for Secure meters, and this guide for Aclara/Honeywell meters. When do I receive a statement and payment? Quarter Statements posted on (+3 working days for post): Payments requested on (+ 3 working days for bank processing): January - March 2022 By the end of April By the end of May April - June 2022 By the end of July By the end of August July - September 2022 By the end of October By the end of November October - December 2022 By the end of January 2023 By the end of February 2023 Can I switch my SEG to another supplier? As generators, you can switch away to another SEG licensee if you wish. However, if you do this whilst still in your contract then a exit fee will apply (£15) - unless you’re moving house or the generator has passed away. You’ll need to stop your SEG contract with us before signing up to a new SEG contract with another SEG licensee. What happens if I move into to a property receiving SEG? If you’ve just moved in to a house which already receives SEG, you’d need to sign-up to a new tariff using the application form. Further to this, we’ll require some proof as evidence that you are now the legal owner of the solar panels: Photo ID - As part of the application we need you to prove your identification. Please send a clear copy of your photo driving license or passport. Proof of Ownership - Written confirmation from Solicitor or Fixtures and Fittings form (TA10) accompanied by a Land Registry certificate. This must clearly evidence ownership of the panels. What do I need to do if I’m moving out of a property receiving SEG? In order for us close your SEG account, all we need to confirm is your final export meter reading and the date you left the property. Email this to the team directly seg@ovoenergy.com ensuring your include your SEG ID, name and address along with your new address so we can send your final statement. Once we have received the readings, these will be applied to the account and will send the final statement on the next statement date. The statement dates fall in April, July, October and January, with payments following two weeks later. Where can I get more information about SEG? You can find yet more information via our FAQs on the OVO website or the Ofgem website. If you can’t find the answer, you can email the team on seg@ovoenergy.com or why not comment below as out knowledgeable community members might be able to offer advice.

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