Home and heating

Good Day, I have noticed in the past few days, when it has been extremely cold that my Solax Battery isn't force charging as much power from the grid as last week when the night time temp was warmer. I used to get 2.4kwh an hour and when its cold only 1kwh max…..Has anyone else experienced this.  Thanks again Jonathan

Hi all,I’ve just bought a new build with a Ecodan FTC. I have had a nightmare trying to balance the house temps. Too cold. Now too hot. I tried the weather comp but my numbers were way out. Downstairs was ok but upstairs was far too cold. Yesterday I changed to auto temp which wacked the flow rate up to 45 and in turn got the upstairs to temp (although downstairs is now tropical!)My understanding is that the auto temp on the Ecodan uses the room temp to make flow adjustments. My issue is that the room temp on the Ecodan is reading like 8 degrees. I imagine this is why it was just flat out all day long.I see you can change the sensor to be either the FTC which it is set at and no doubt where the temp of 8 is being read from, or the TH1 to use a wireless controller.This is where I need help. There is a wireless unit attached but I am not sure if this is the correct thing. Used to connect the app.How can I get the actual house temp to the Ecodan FTC to take advantage of the auto temp feat

Hi, I recently installed a Livoltek ESS and I can constantly see the draw from the battery is nearly always double (low loads) to that of the demand (Home) is this normal or am I missing something obvious. 

Hi Folks, I was reading the very helpful posts onEcodan FTC- Had a nightmare trying to balance the house temperature?as as i was getting to the end, I was sure I was going to get the answer I need but i didn't. I have a very similar issue to the OP, except my FTC is indoor so its saying the heat is currently much higher than the room stats which are Danfoss. I have UFH downstairs and Rads upstairs, so on 2 Zones. The compensation curve is giving enough heat downstairs but not upstairs, especially at night for the little ones, so I want to swap control the heat by the room stats. I have 2 stats down stairs and one upstairs. I don't have a wireless controller, but surely my system can run off the Danfoss stats? any help would be great. 

How do I get a 100 amp breaker switch  fitted to my supply to assist with the connection  of my solar / battery system?

We live in a new build home and have a 11.2 kw ecodan air source heat pump . Radiators warming up in zone 1 ( downstairs)  but not in zone 2 upstairs . All radiators have been bled . See pic . Zone 2 shows as on , can hear it working but no Heat to radiators ( can see difference between actual and target temp ) . This has only happened very recently after installers were here as some of the radiators in upstaters were not heating . They fixed saying that not all were ‘fully open’ . We had heat in all for a few days then it stopped . Can someone advise or guid please ? Mitsubishi have suggested it could be a valve issue that slits the flow between zone1 and 2 .  

I have THTC two meters one for normal and one for THTC . All the timing functions of the THTC meter are operating correctly but the meter is not clocking up the usage . Contacted OVO customer services a few times basically Smart meter THTC not available till first Quarter 2024 and SMS highland Div unable to carry out repairs or replace the meter at present. You views would be appreciated thanks. 

Recent installation of ecodan system and struggling to set up timed temperature changes for heating.Schedule for heating has been set at 16 overnight, 18 from 5.30 am and down to 16 again at 8pm.Schedule timer set as on for the whole 24 hours.Tried this two mornings so far and on neither morning has heating turned up to 18 at 5.30 am. I think I've tried both the timer symbol from f4 heating house symbol and the on symbol.  I would be very grateful if someone could tell me exactly what symbols should be showing on the screen for the heating button at bedtime, so I can wake up to heat. Many thanks 

There are a few pieces of feedback elsewhere from battery users (Merged into this thread)One thing to bear in mind is that you never have enough battery storage so whatever you think you need , double it!We have had battery storage now for 2 years and it has helped our solar PV efficiency tremendously. One thing to think about is the maximum kw draw on your system. This is usually when multiple things get switched on together. In our case it would be an electric shower, kitchen appliances (oven, air fryer etc) and other general equipment such as hair dryers, washing machines and tumble dryers. Even with solar active (less so in the winter), the capacity of your inverter to supply the whole household power is significant so it is useful to understand and plan for a system expansion. We have already doubled our battery capacity and are planning to increase this again very soon. The unfortunate thing at present is that any retrofit battery system does not fall into the 0% vat category - a

I am puzzled that my smart meter sometimes shows power being exported to the grid after dark.Can anyone explain please?

Good afternoon,My first post/question.  I have aded solar panels and battery storage unit.  Does anyone experience other solar panel users that grid power is used, not much but say overnight with full battery I use 50watts. Not much but want to know other opinions.  Thanks. Jonathan 

has anyone found a solution to the ‘long standing problem’ of getting their ecodan to re-connct to the internet through wi-fi, using the WPS button on a BT Router? also; has anyone modified their ecodan controler, by adding an ethernet connection?

I have A Daikon Altherma 10kw ASHP and 11 Dimplex Smart rads for emitters. I would like some advice on best temp setting for flow. I think this called LWT? Not sure what this really means. Also DHW reheat temp? And What is weather dependant setting for. Sorry if these are stupid questions.

HelloI’m new to ASHP having only had the system fitted in June of this year and only started using it in September. I read previously that the Ecodan 13Kw system should run at around 300% efficiency i.e. consume 1 unit of electrical energy and deliver 3 units of heat energy.The installer didn’t provide any advice on how to use the system on completion just said that its all set up to go. My problem is that in November for example the DHW has consumed 59kWh and delivered 93kWh of energy whilst the heating system consumed 410 kWh and delivered 303 kWh. By my reckoning this is a negative COP on the heating side.The system is set to auto adapt with the weather compensation curve in the background. The system is set at 16C and scheduled to kick in during the period 05.00 to 10.00 and again at 17.00 to 20.00 just to provide heat whilst the log burners kick in. I’ve noticed that on occasions the electric heater icon is showing on the controller screen.Is there something obvious that I’m missi

Since the installation of solar panels my electricity usage has gone up 12 fold. During that time, if all is working correctly, I have also used the 700 KWs generated by my solar panels which means my actual usage has gone up far more than 12 fold. Is it possible that the energy generated by my solar panels is adding to my meter readings, in othervwords benefitting the electric company rather than me? Might they have been wired incorrectly? 

Hi all, new member.  I’ve recently had an ECODAN ASHP installed (in the last couple of weeks) and from a heating point of view we are really happy with what it’s producing, we’re trying to use the curve after reading that this is the best way to run them. My question is how do you reduce the temperature at night so it’s not just reading the outside temperature and increasing the flow temperature whilst we’re all warm under a blanket?  I’d heard people talk about “set back” modes but cannot find this in any manual for the ECODAN. I’ve resorted to putting the timer on so it turns off from 10pm to 6am but then it has to work really hard to get back up to temp.  Any advice welcome.  Thanks 

Hi,on Ecodan I changed from weather compensation curve heating to auto adaptive “room temperature” heating (which uses build-in temperature sensor in my main unit). Room temperature was 22 degrees, outside 7 degrees. After 30 minutes I noticed that electric heater icon was ON (which never happened in weather compensation heating). Any suggestions why in auto adaptive heating, electric heater is used? 

We have a mitsubishi ecodan heat pump and use the melcloud app to control it. At 05.30 this morning the pumps started and the melcloud showed "antifreeze".  The frost protection is turned off,  internal temperature was 18c, outside was 5c. Can anyone tell me if this is normal or how can I prevent this happening? I would also be grateful for any advice on the correct settings for the compensation curve.  Thanks in advance. 

Anyone with a similar problem as mine?My local authority building regulations dictate where the central heating thermostat is sited. In my property it is in my entrance hall which is about 1/4 the size of my lounge. Subsequently the hallway heats up very quickly and switches off while my lounge is still freezing! In order to counter this I have to crank the thermostat up to sauna temperatures in order to warm up the lounge, either that or leave the front door open.Regulations prevent me fitting flow controls on the hall radiator which would fix the problem.Anyone got a solution?

I live in a fairly remote Scottish locality and am currently on THTC powering storage heaters and hot water. Looking at my most recent bill, I have paid noticeably more than if I had simply been on a single meter with everything running on a standard tariff instead of THTC.To me this begs the question - what is the point of THTC if I am actually paying more?Also, I assume SSE are obliged to replace the meter with a standard one if I request them to do so (I realise this may take some months)?

Does any one have any experience/ or anecdotes regarding reverse flow switching? particularly interested in experiences with 3 phase systems as well!Non smart meter v smart meter all of interest.

Hi all,  Had a new ASHP installed mid October 23, we had to put the pump on opposite side of the property to the cylinder thus running the pipes the width of the house under the first floor floorboards.  It seems loud…..pipes knocking when ramping up and a fairly constant “flow” noise.   Wondering I’d the community has similar issues with the internal workings being loud? thanks 

Good evening, we’re generally very happy with our PV and battery system, but a couple of months ago, the system started misfunctioning.  Although the batteries are full, a percentage of the load is constantly being drawn from the grid, while a portion trickles from the batteries.  This is irrespective of the load, I.e. when we’re cooking or when we’re sleeping, some draws from the grid and some from the battery.  Obviously this is incurring costs that we needn’t have.  The battery supplier Foxess says that it could be a CT clamp problem.  Does anyone else have a suggestion or confirmation?  The system is  2 years old and was installed by a National company who are now in liquidation!

Any ideas which is the most economical option to have the DHW on reheat or to schedule it? 

Hi all, we seem to be possibly the only trialists with a Daikin Altherma 3 and Sunamp combination and although the system is functioning and supplying all our needs my question is has anyone received their yearly service / maintainance yet regarding the indoor and outdoor units and if they have what did it consist of? as i have had mine and the engineer was at a loss to identify any part of the system that needed servicing! any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated, Dave.