How quickly do your radiators get up to temperature with a heat pump (ASHP)?

@Jenp i don’t know Mitsubishi systems myself, @M.isterW might be able to help with specifics with the EcoDan. If running in pure weather compensation you may not be able to set indoor temperature, you tweak the weather compensation to achieve your desired indoor temperature.

55C is a really high flow temperature though. What figures did you use in the settings? Depends on house insulation and whether you have radiators or underfloor heating but I’d recommend a good upper end, around -2C outside to be 45C max for radiators and 35C max with underfloor. Mine is down at 40C at -5C outside. Set the low end of the weather compensation to 30C at 20C outside for rads, 20C at 20C for underfloor. 

But with lower flow, but more efficient, you will require a longer running time. I run my system for 20.5C from 06:00-21:30. It usually takes 2-3 hours to get up to 20.5C 

I think you need to spend some time learning about the best way to run a heat pump and how to operate the controls on the Ecodan control panel. Your posts are really confusing and you're talking about mutually exclusive settings - you can't have your flow temp set to 55 degrees and also be using weather compensation (unless the 55 degrees is for your DHW).

Thank you Sam that's very helpful. Misterw, not helpful, sam agrees that flow temp should be lower, not. High at 55.. I aplogise for ‘confusion’ in my post but this is my understanding and need help and advice. I have set wc up as per numerous blogs and heatgeek videos, flow temp according to them should be the lower the better for efficiency so I'm not sure why you are confused? I'm am grateful for help not sarcasm 

@Jenp i echo @hydrosam - it looks like you are getting there using weather comp but that setting only beneficial when running all day or for long periods.

 I used to run my system off the room stat but have since ditched that, opened all TRVs fully (other than main bedroom)and run the heating 0500-2100. Room stat is set at 22° but weather curve set to give me 19-20°, that way the heating cuts off only if gets above 22° and too uncomfortable for us. Max radiator water temp is set to 40° at -3.

you may well find that running like this your home will be toasty warm 24/7 AND your heating bill is lower. Now that’s magic!

Thanks Jason, Appreciate you taking the time to share this info… it takes a couple of hours generally.. it’s never really comfortably warm probably because of the way we’re using it. The water flow is only 16, I’ve read it should be minimum 19 so this could be why it takes 2 hours to get warm. I’ve set it to weather comp curve.. what I don’t understand is how do you run it 5_9pm. And I can longer see a room temp on the stat when it’s set to curve operation. I’ve set it at 40/0 and 25/15. I can only get room temp figure back if I run it from the room stat setting within the control panel. I maybe need to ask Mitsubishi. How do you know yours cuts off at 19? Do I need a separate room stat maybe, as this doesn’t show on eco Dan fc6 panel, hence my confusion. If yours goes off at 9 pm isn’t the ashp working overtime at 5am to get rooms warm again? I have cop of 3.5 but heat geek gets a massive 5.9 in an old cold uninsulated  office, how good is that! I have of Solar too so can use that to fund the cost during the day  when it’s cold but sunny.  Any one out there that can help with this set up of eco Dan fc6 - welcome, huge thanks Jason!

@Jenp MisterW is the one with an Ecodan 

You either run the system on the weather compensation OR use a fixed flow temp. Your earlier post suggested you are mixing the two methods, but they are mutually exclusive as he said.

When you refer to 16 and 19 is that flow rate ? Can you give units to clarify?

Yes I believe the flow rate is 16, upon checking the figure’s advised by heat geek,I  read it should be min 19…I have zero room stats apart from the one on the control panel so no idea how I’m supposed to know unless I buy something else to add to system., it’s all very confusing but once I know what’s what and how to set it up I’ll be happier, at the minute I’m just going by what I’ve read/watched and applied methods ad advised.. misterw may well be the one with the eco Dan but I don’t appreciate unhelpful  comments.. if I knew what to do I wouldn’t be asking the questions, giving advice is maybe more useful….thank you for yr comments,

@Jenp the flow rate on my Daikin varies from around 14 litres per minute to 19. LookinG at your COP OF 3.5 (is that for hot water and heating?) I think your system looks fine, and that is what we are getting at the moment. Our heating is returning around COP of 4 but it is the hot water that drags it down - this is running around 2.3 (as expected as it is heating the hot water to a higher temperature)

@jason.lewis have you been able to set your flow rate or is it just reported as 14 to 19 l/m ? 

Thanks Jase, we tend to use the Solar to heat the hot water, unless a cloudy day I’ll put it on an hour or so, depending on what the weather man predicts! I’m not sure how to figure out the cop for both, or individually, I just see the 2 figures and calculate I’m afraid.  I just don’t know whether to leave at curve settings I added or switch back to room stat, but using a lower flow temp. It was at 55 fixed I believe, and whether ( don’t know if possible) reduce the flow temp to like 40 but use room stat all the time… argh it’s so confusing!

 I just want house warm and reduce running costs where possible, 300 p/m with Solar is a lot…thanks all!