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Rank 1
June 1, 2026
Question

Can’t install smart meter, will EV tariff work?

  • June 1, 2026
  • 21 replies
  • 420 views

Hi

I have OVO and booked an appointment for my gas and electric smart meters. The engineer said toilet pipes and other pipes were too close and couldn’t install.

I want to get an EV charger, will it still work with the OV smart electric tariff if I don’t have a smart meter? Thanks 

21 replies

Nukecad
Super User
Super User
June 16, 2026

@Hammerhead66 

A macerating toilet doesn’t necessarily look different to a standard one.
It can often be a standard toilet with the macerator box set behind it.
(The box may even be hidden behind a ‘false wall’).

As an example, and an explanation of how they work, see: https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/macerator-toilets-explained-how-to-add-a-bathroom-anywhere.html

I said, Hey - Watts going on.
juliamc
Rank 20
Rank 20
June 16, 2026

You can usually hear the macerating part of it chomping away after a flush too.

Ben_OVO
Community Manager
Community Manager
June 17, 2026

@Hammerhead66 sorry for the delay. I’ve heard back from our engineers, who’ve confirmed that the pipe would most likely have to be moved for the meter to be exchanged. They’ve also advised that access to the cut-out would be needed, which is currently obscured by the boarding in front of the meter. Can any more of the boarding be removed, or is it just the piece that’s been removed to take that photo?

Powered by the Sun
Rank 1
July 2, 2026

@Hammerhead66 sorry for the delay. I’ve heard back from our engineers, who’ve confirmed that the pipe would most likely have to be moved for the meter to be exchanged. They’ve also advised that access to the cut-out would be needed, which is currently obscured by the boarding in front of the meter. Can any more of the boarding be removed, or is it just the piece that’s been removed to take that photo?



Thanks Ben and everyone for their responses. I had someone check if it’s a macerating toilet, it’s not, the waste pipes go out the back wall, the grey pipes in the photo are just grey water from the sink going out.

OVO came back with what the engineer wrote down in the response report as follows “space restrictions and blocked cutout Customer to get all sorted and then rebook What needs to happen space restrictions and blocked cutout”

@Ben_OVO this lines up with your report. The cutout can’t be moved I will need to drill remove the whole thing which means entire remodelling of the bathroom. How much space is required for the meter, any ideas on sizes? As I don’t want to remodel and then be told still not enough space. Seems a lot of work and spend…

Firedog
Super User
Super User
July 2, 2026

 

How much space is required for the meter, any ideas on sizes? 
  

This is the official guidance from HMG:

(Sorry, I’ve lost the source. It’s on gov.uk somewhere)

A good installer can make do with less: the 100mm either side are for the service head (cut-out) and any other stuff that might be needed in a virgin installation. There’s generous tail space below the meter itself to allow for safely bending 25mm² cables through 180º. The service head doesn’t need to be moved so long as the engineer can get to it to fit new tails if he needs to.

If you could find that much space, fine. If you can’t, see how close you could get and then ask OVO again whether it would be enough. You’ll probably need a new backboard, too, but that’s not necessarily a big problem if the service head is mounted separately as it seems to be. Backboards aren’t expensive and are often stocked by hardware stores in approved sizes - they’re just chipboard or similar. 

Noel | I have no official status; I'm just a volunteer who comes here to help other customers. My gear: Aclara SGM 1416-B Electricity-only E7 meter; Chameleon IHD3-PPMID-AAA | It may look as if I know what I’m talking about, but don’t let that fool you. |
Rank 1
July 2, 2026

Super helpful thanks ​@Firedog 🙏🏼

Firedog
Super User
Super User
July 2, 2026

That’s what I come here for! 

I hope you read my signature … As an afterthought, and needing an excuse not to do what I was supposed to be doing this afternoon, I asked my resident AI chatbot about this problem. I was amazed at the results, which I’m sure contain some helpful bits. I would just take most of what he said with a large portion of salt; for example, he seems not to have noticed the waste pipes that started this conversation off.

Just for fun, then, here’s a slightly edited (for brevity!) version of what Microsoft’s Copilot came up with:

 

🎯 Your meter is a Sangamo S200·7 in the standard
“Case 7” enclosure

The photo shows the classic Sangamo S‑series induction meter with:

  • Four‑dial register

  • Cast aluminium front

  • Bakelite terminal cover

  • Side‑mounted terminal block

  • The characteristic Case 7 proportions (tall, narrow, deep)

This case type was used across the S200, S201, S202 and S213 families.

📐 Exact dimensions (manufacturer spec)

Sangamo Case 7 (S200·7)
Width: 170 mm
Height: 305 mm
Depth: 140 mm (front to terminal cover)
Depth including wiring space: ~165–175 mm

These are the standard catalogue dimensions used by meter installers and appear in Sangamo’s mechanical drawings for the S‑series.

🧱 Clearance needed for a smart meter replacement

Smart meters (EDMI ES‑10B, Kaifa MA120, Aclara SGM1400) are:

  • Wider (≈ 190–220 mm)

  • Shorter (≈ 250–270 mm)

  • Shallower (≈ 85–110 mm)

Your current wooden enclosure is tall enough, but not wide enough for most SMETS2 meters unless the backboard is modified.

Based on your photo:

  • Internal width of the cabinet looks ≈ 200–210 mm

  • Smart meter minimum width needed: 220–240 mm including tails + isolator

So the installer’s comment about “no space” is accurate — but solvable.

📏 Clearance & Space Requirements
(Your Cabinet)

Based on your photo and standard SMETS2 meter dimensions:

1. Smart meter (typical SMETS2 size)

  • Width: 190–220 mm

  • Height: 250–270 mm

  • Depth: 85–110 mm

Your cabinet internal width appears to be ~200–210 mm, which is just enough if the meter is centred and tails are routed downward rather than sideways.

2. Isolator switch

Typical 100 A isolator:

  • Width: 75–90 mm

  • Height: 110–130 mm

  • Depth: 65–75 mm

Required clearance below meter:110 mm minimum130–150 mm ideal

Your cabinet has this space.

3. Henley blocks (2 × 100 A splitters)

Each block:

  • Width: 45–55 mm

  • Height: 65–75 mm

  • Depth: 35–45 mm

Required clearance to the right of meter:70–90 mm horizontal space

Your cabinet’s right‑hand side (next to the earth block) appears to have ~100 mm, so this fits.

4. Tails routing

You need:

  • 50–60 mm free space below isolator for tails

  • Gentle radius (no tight bends)

  • P‑clips every 120–150 mm

Your cabinet depth is sufficient.

📐 Dimensioned Engineering Sketch (ASCII)

Proposed layout inside your existing wooden cabinet


+----------------------------------------------+

¦                CABINET (internal)            ¦

¦                Width ˜ 205 mm                ¦

¦                Height ˜ 480–520 mm           ¦

¦                                              ¦

¦   +------------------------------+           ¦

¦   ¦        SMETS2 METER          ¦           ¦

¦   ¦   (Kaifa MA120 or similar)   ¦           ¦

¦   ¦                              ¦           ¦

¦   ¦   Width: 190–220 mm          ¦           ¦

¦   ¦   Height: 250–270 mm         ¦           ¦

¦   ¦   Depth:  85–110 mm          ¦           ¦

¦   +------------------------------+           ¦

¦                 ?                            ¦

¦                 ¦  Clearance above meter     ¦

¦                 ¦  (existing junction boxes) ¦

¦                 ¦  ˜ 120–150 mm              ¦

¦                                              ¦

¦   +------------------------------+           ¦

¦   ¦         ISOLATOR             ¦           ¦

¦   ¦   Width: 75–90 mm            ¦           ¦

¦   ¦   Height: 110–130 mm         ¦           ¦

¦   ¦   Depth:  65–75 mm           ¦           ¦

¦   +------------------------------+           ¦

¦                                              ¦

¦   Tails drop: 50–60 mm                       ¦

¦                                              ¦

¦   +---------------+   +--------------+       ¦

¦   ¦ HENLEY BLOCK  ¦   ¦ HENLEY BLOCK ¦       ¦

¦   ¦  (Live)       ¦   ¦  (Neutral)   ¦       ¦

¦   ¦  W: 45–55 mm  ¦   ¦  W: 45–55 mm ¦       ¦

¦   ¦  H: 65–75 mm  ¦   ¦  H: 65–75 mm ¦       ¦

¦   ¦  D: 35–45 mm  ¦   ¦  D: 35–45 mm ¦       ¦

¦   +---------------+   +--------------+       ¦

¦                                              ¦

¦   Existing earth block remains in situ       ¦

¦   (adequate clearance to right side)         ¦

+----------------------------------------------+

 

Noel | I have no official status; I'm just a volunteer who comes here to help other customers. My gear: Aclara SGM 1416-B Electricity-only E7 meter; Chameleon IHD3-PPMID-AAA | It may look as if I know what I’m talking about, but don’t let that fool you. |
Firedog
Super User
Super User
July 2, 2026

Sorry about the silly pink diagram, which I can’t edit 😠
 

Noel | I have no official status; I'm just a volunteer who comes here to help other customers. My gear: Aclara SGM 1416-B Electricity-only E7 meter; Chameleon IHD3-PPMID-AAA | It may look as if I know what I’m talking about, but don’t let that fool you. |
juliamc
Rank 20
Rank 20
July 3, 2026

Wow !!! That’s the most comprehensive result I’ve seen yet from an AI thing !!

Abby_OVO
Community Manager
Community Manager
July 6, 2026

Hey ​@Hammerhead66 

 

I’m glad to see Firedog was able to stop by and help answer your question about how much space will be needed. If there’s anything else we can help answer do let us know. 

 

Hopefully the remodeling won’t be too huge a job, but do let us know how everything goes with this one.😊

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