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Rank 6
October 25, 2021
Solved

Hot water and heating control with my Mitsubishi Ecodan Air-Source Heat Pump (ASHP)?

  • October 25, 2021
  • 81 replies
  • 18264 views

Hi there,

 

I’ve been looking at some of the data coming from my EcoDan system. 

Something you can see here just looking at the tank temp maroon line at the top (chart is last 24 hours of time). At around midnight the HW temp falls to about 40 degrees which triggers the pump to bring it back up to 50. The temp then falls back across late night / early morning. Given I know no one is going to use the HW until 7am, is heating up at midnight a waste? It seems like that intially, but then you have to factor in that the tank temp would still fall further if not reheated at midnight. 
 

Wondering if I could / should stop the HW heating up at midnight? (Of course if I had a nighttime elec tariff this could be a better strategy)

 

Best answer by Speps

You can do two things to stop this.

Firstly is to look at and adjust the reheat temperature, which is the temperature below the set point that the tank will heat up. These graphs don't tell the whole story but it looks like yours is very aggressive, 5 degrees or less? Try 10 or even 12 degrees.

Second thing you can do is to adjust the hot water timer so it doesn't go on overnight.

I use this timer to stop the hot water from reheating in the morning, as otherwise a few morning showers will stop the central heating and interferes with the heating schedule. But I would not suggest this for your fix as there will be times you empty the tank before bed and need it in the morning.

I've attached my graph of the same. By chance it also shows a leigionella boost. Its strange your graph doesn't show the boiler set point? 

Another warning not to take these graphs as 100% accurate for temperature, as I had a shower last night and it was definitely warmer than the 20 degrees it says my tank was.

 

81 replies

Tim_OVO
OVO Staff
OVO Forum Legend
June 13, 2023

@Caroline2000 just to confirm, the electrician confirmed that the fuse (where is the fuse in a heat pump?) had gone. So it needs replacing does it? He also confirmed no power to the pump? How is the underfloor heating working if the pump has no electricity?

Carbon neutral - we need a community to get there! My green tech: Aclara SGM 1411-B smart meter, Chameleon IHD6
Newcomer
June 13, 2023

A heat pump needs an electric source. There are 2 13A spurs…..one has just melted! The U/F heating and DHW are on 2 different loops, hence one is affected and the other not

 

Newcomer
June 13, 2023

I'm no expert but it sounds like either a fault with the controller or the circulation pump.

 

Have you tried turning the water on from the FTC controller and Melcloud?

We don’t have Melcloud. We have now got hot water but it’s using the immersion only to heat which isn’t ideal

EllieElectro
Rank 2
Rank 2
June 15, 2023

Did you find the solution to this problem? If so tell us

Newcomer
June 15, 2023

Our electrician friend has bypassed the fuse/spur - still amped via fuse box in garage so safe. Allowing immersion to come on. He thought the pump must be broken but he’s said it’s a very simple Groundfos CIL2 pump so shouldn’t be an issue. He thinks that the pump wasn’t kicking in as the temp was below the settings we had set for when it would heat water (he thinks maybe to protect airsource during very cold weather)

The water temp is now above this minimum level (thanks to the immersion working) and it seems to have kicked the air source unit/pump attached to tank into action.

We are keeping our fingers crossed as an issue with the FTC would be very expensive to fix!

M.isterW
Rank 6
Rank 6
June 15, 2023

It sounds like the fuse that's blown was for the immersion heater, not the heat pump. I would get a proper electrician to fix it because bypassing it is potentially dangerous.

 

Heat pumps don't have a minimum water temperature below which they won't switch on. That would make no sense as it would stop the heat pump reheating the cylinder if you used all the hot water. I'm pleased it's now working but I wonder if there was a problem with your settings.

1992 4 bed detached house. Solar PV + battery, Zappi EV charger, Mitsubishi Ecodan ASHP and i-life2 fan assisted radiators.... No gas 😊
Newcomer
June 15, 2023

Obviously it needs fixing - we need a new spur switch/fuse which is getting done today.

The friend is a qualified electrician, qualified to work on high voltage installations off shore as well - so trust he knows what he’s doing!

We have had this system since 2019 and got the most part works fine. Biggest gripe is the cost to run it…..£6000 a year at the moment - hopefully a drop in electricity prices will help 

Our settings were to heat water once it dropped around 20 degrees from target temperature 

juliamc
Rank 20
Rank 20
June 15, 2023

Yikes, unless you have a huge house heated to tropical temps that’s far more than it should be. Sounds like there’s something not set up right. Are you still in touch with the installer ? Do you know what COP you’re getting?

If you describe your system components and settings here there are a number of heat pump owners keen to help improve the performance for you. It may be just a few settings that can be altered.

Newcomer
June 15, 2023

It’s the heating that is the biggest cost, specifically the wet underfloor heating downstairs.

When electricity was 13p/unit the summer months were around £60/month.

The original installer came out a few times, but said it was fine…then seemed to go AWOL/MIA…..got some advice from a forum to fiddle around with the compensation curve - that helped a bit; but the increase in electricity price pretty much tripled/quadrupled the cost.

Where do I find the COP…I do recall having this at the start…now we just try not to think about altering settings as it was driving us crackers!

House is quite big, but it’s never tropical…..just about warm enough in winter to get by!

Once I get the fuse/pump sorted I’ll post our settings and see if it can be improved.

Newcomer
June 15, 2023

It sounds like the fuse that's blown was for the immersion heater, not the heat pump. I would get a proper electrician to fix it because bypassing it is potentially dangerous.

 

Heat pumps don't have a minimum water temperature below which they won't switch on. That would make no sense as it would stop the heat pump reheating the cylinder if you used all the hot water. I'm pleased it's now working but I wonder if there was a problem with your settings.

Just to add…when I refer to the pump, Im taking about the small pump device attached to the mixing tank…not the ASHP outside.