No hot water or storage heating following smart meter installation

Yes, although he might need to get the command sent again from the office - make sure he understands. 
ECAUL/ALCS Configs

I’m fairly sure you’ll find that everything is as it should be with one exception: power to the second CU hasn’t been switching on when it should. I asked what times this should be; 11pm to 7am is eight hours, and there should normally only be seven (that’s why it’s called Economy 7). This may be different in some parts of the country, though.

The pictures of your TOU registers look quite normal, although I’d hoped to be able to see whether TOU Rate 1 was the peak register or not (it should be!). You can check this yourself by looking again now, or in a few hours’ time. Only one of TOU Rate 1 and TOU Rate 2 should have changed; whichever it is is the peak register.

You can tell during the night whether the ALCS is working by looking at the tiny icons in the bottom right-hand corner of the display. 

• ı is the switch for power to the ‘always active’ CU - lights etc. 
• ıı is the switch for power to the offpeak CU - heaters etc.
• o¯o shows that the switch is closed, as switch ı should be all the time.
• o´o shows that the switch is open, as switch ıı should be except during the night.
  Switch ıı might change to something else during the night, depending on how the engineer wired up the ALCS. It might show  LC1  or  LC2  or both instead of o´o. All that matters to you is that it doesn’t show o¯o during the night.

You say there’s another engineer coming. Ask him to conduct an ALCS test on the meter. This will test whether things are wired as they should be by temporarily activating the ALCS. The display should change and there should be power to the heaters meanwhile. For example, if the immersion heater has an LED indicator, it will perhaps come on while the ALCS is active.

Then, if your heating definitely doesn’t come on tonight, OVO will have to try again to send the ECAUL request. We have seen lots of cases where it doesn’t work the first (and sometimes the second) time, but does eventually. I don’t know whether you can get this done on a Sunday; it would be worthwhile contacting Support either via Twitter or Facebook Messenger (the blue button at the foot of this page), who are there on Sundays. I don’t know if they can persuade the Smart team to spark on a Sunday, though. 

Good luck 🙂

Hopefully they are! I’m in the southern England (new forest). Still Waiting for an engineer to show up. 

Oh dear - well that display looks like others we’ve seen working correctly. 
It really needs someone to trace the cabling to see where the connection is lost. The added complication is of course, it will only be live overnight 

I’m not sure if OVO would do the tracing. Although as things were working before, something has changed. 
If your day time electricity is ok, we can discount the left hand connection. 
For the right hand, overnight 

The power, when switched on time, goes along the brown cable (yellow arrows), up and into the connection block. It then goes out on the red cable (green arrows) into the right hand consumer unit. That is the path that needs tracing with the power to it on

Well, good news and bad news! The meter is now functioning as it’s intended to, with the ALCS definitely ON at 03:00.  [As I wrote yesterday, “Switch ıı might change to something else during the night, depending on how the engineer wired up the ALCS. It might show  LC1  or  LC2  or both instead of o´o. All that matters to you is that it doesn’t show o¯o during the night.”]

So, if power isn’t getting to the heating CU even though it’s switched on, it looks most likely that the fault is as BP says at the Henley block he illustrated so clearly. It has a seal on it, but whether that was fitted by the DNO or the meter engineer, a careful electrician could break the seal to check it out with no comebacks, because it’s downstream of the meter. It won’t be live during the day when switch ıı is open o¯o . There’s also a possibility that the connection into the CU is broken, but that’s not so likely with those nice modern CUs. 

Because OVO have done their stuff and the meter is now doing what it’s supposed to, it’s your (the customer’s) electrician’s job to sort out the broken connection after the meter:
  

PS If there is a fault with that connection block, you might consider having the electrician install an isolator switch instead, or even a double one instead of both blocks. This would make it simpler in the future for electricians to work on the CUs and in the house without having to remove the main fuse. Ask him what he thinks. What would you say to that, @BPLightlog ?  Sr Mendez might want to install an EV charger at some point …

Thank you so much for your answers.

ill be contacting ovo tomorrow morning and I’ve got a electrician coming over to check, my question is shall I tell him about ovo or wait for him to see what he can find out? 
I’ll be requesting and electrician from ovo too as they were the ones who installed my meter.

ibe for a question too, if I tell them to put me on single tariff will that make my hot water and heating work? Also if it was a problem on my cpu wouldn’t tripped over? 
thanks in advance 

Thank you!

I’ll see if Ivo can send an electrician to sort it out or my electrician can find out the problem 

I did boost it myself for 45 mins yesterday and today I can hear the click and the LC1 and LC2 appears on the screen but heating still not working an so is the hot water. This is how the wires are connected. 

That is exactly why the cables need tracking to see where the live circuit stops ..

It could be at the meter terminal, somewhere along the brown cable, in the terminal block, in the red cable or in the consumer unit. 
Alternatively, there could be a fault with the black neutral return

Me agin! I just wanted to give u an update! I’ve got an electrician came today, and he sort it out in 5 minutes! Problem was in the fuse box red wire was disconnected, so obviously I couldn’t have hot water or heating.
electrian said that while the engineer who put my smart metter prob pull it a bit stronger that it should be…. 

i tried the boost and is all working as it should do!

thank you everyone for your help!

That’s really good news! Next Aha!-moment will be at 03:00 tomorrow morning when you wake up to realize that the heaters are warming up and there’s lots of hot water.

OK, that makes sense. It’s a good job it didn’t start sparking when the power came on; the one who tugged on it must have made a clean break.

I suppose that the ‘fuse box’ is the white box with the breakers in it. That’s what electricians nowadays refer to as a Consumer Unit, CU. There’s probably only one ‘fuse’ in the set-up you’ve shown us, and that’s the Main fuse in what’s known as the Cut-out, a little box out of sight below your meter. No-one is allowed to touch that without the distributor’s authority. The meter installer will have removed it to be able to work safely, then replaced it afterwards after checking that everything was working as intended. 

It sounds as if this last check wasn’t thorough enough - he would have discovered that broken connection if it had been. I can’t imagine why this engineer would have done anything with the red cable except perhaps check its continuity, so perhaps the disconnection happened later. Whoever was responsible, it’s caused a lot of anguish and time wasting and expense for lots of people over the past few days. I bet you’re glad it’s over 🙂