Oh I see so that should be on the smart meter settings which the engineer will need to check? 

Yes, although he might need to get the command sent again from the office - make sure he understands. 
ECAUL/ALCS Configs

Thank you so much!!! My engineer time slot has passed though wonder if they will still coming?

I’m fairly sure you’ll find that everything is as it should be with one exception: power to the second CU hasn’t been switching on when it should. I asked what times this should be; 11pm to 7am is eight hours, and there should normally only be seven (that’s why it’s called Economy 7). This may be different in some parts of the country, though.

The pictures of your TOU registers look quite normal, although I’d hoped to be able to see whether TOU Rate 1 was the peak register or not (it should be!). You can check this yourself by looking again now, or in a few hours’ time. Only one of TOU Rate 1 and TOU Rate 2 should have changed; whichever it is is the peak register.

You can tell during the night whether the ALCS is working by looking at the tiny icons in the bottom right-hand corner of the display. 

• ı is the switch for power to the ‘always active’ CU - lights etc. 
• ıı is the switch for power to the offpeak CU - heaters etc.
• o¯o shows that the switch is closed, as switch ı should be all the time.
• o´o shows that the switch is open, as switch ıı should be except during the night.
  Switch ıı might change to something else during the night, depending on how the engineer wired up the ALCS. It might show  LC1  or  LC2  or both instead of o´o. All that matters to you is that it doesn’t show o¯o during the night.

You say there’s another engineer coming. Ask him to conduct an ALCS test on the meter. This will test whether things are wired as they should be by temporarily activating the ALCS. The display should change and there should be power to the heaters meanwhile. For example, if the immersion heater has an LED indicator, it will perhaps come on while the ALCS is active.

Then, if your heating definitely doesn’t come on tonight, OVO will have to try again to send the ECAUL request. We have seen lots of cases where it doesn’t work the first (and sometimes the second) time, but does eventually. I don’t know whether you can get this done on a Sunday; it would be worthwhile contacting Support either via Twitter or Facebook Messenger (the blue button at the foot of this page), who are there on Sundays. I don’t know if they can persuade the Smart team to spark on a Sunday, though. 

Good luck 

PS Your latest photo shows the Active Tariff Price. If this is what you couldn’t find last time you looked, it could be that the Smart team at OVO are even today busily trying to get your meter set up properly. The figure shown is the peak time tariff including VAT; it’s pretty high, so are you in an expensive part of the country? Check which region you’re in here:
  

Hopefully they are! I’m in the southern England (new forest). Still Waiting for an engineer to show up. 

So… this is me at 3 am as I can’t sleep knowing that still not hot water and engineer said the meter is fine I took this pictures just now to see if it is as it should be. ? Thank you all for your help really appreciate it. 

Oh dear - well that display looks like others we’ve seen working correctly. 
It really needs someone to trace the cabling to see where the connection is lost. The added complication is of course, it will only be live overnight 

Will Ovo trace the cabling or would i need to pay someone to do it? 
Yesterday it wasn’t any electricity running on the wires red and black when the engineer was here before he left it tested it again and it was life. 

thanks for your time, don’t know what else to do. Could still be the ECLUA? 

I’m not sure if OVO would do the tracing. Although as things were working before, something has changed. 
If your day time electricity is ok, we can discount the left hand connection. 
For the right hand, overnight 

The power, when switched on time, goes along the brown cable (yellow arrows), up and into the connection block. It then goes out on the red cable (green arrows) into the right hand consumer unit. That is the path that needs tracing with the power to it on

Thank you for your replay.

i should call them tomorrow and tell them what you just told me? Sorry im lost in electrics and I don’t even know if they will know what im trying to say ‍♀️ 

Well, good news and bad news! The meter is now functioning as it’s intended to, with the ALCS definitely ON at 03:00.  �As I wrote yesterday, “Switch ıı might change to something else during the night, depending on how the engineer wired up the ALCS. It might show  LC1  or  LC2  or both instead of o´o. All that matters to you is that it doesn’t show o¯o during the night.”]

So, if power isn’t getting to the heating CU even though it’s switched on, it looks most likely that the fault is as BP says at the Henley block he illustrated so clearly. It has a seal on it, but whether that was fitted by the DNO or the meter engineer, a careful electrician could break the seal to check it out with no comebacks, because it’s downstream of the meter. It won’t be live during the day when switch ıı is open o¯o . There’s also a possibility that the connection into the CU is broken, but that’s not so likely with those nice modern CUs. 

Because OVO have done their stuff and the meter is now doing what it’s supposed to, it’s your (the customer’s) electrician’s job to sort out the broken connection after the meter:
  

PS If there is a fault with that connection block, you might consider having the electrician install an isolator switch instead, or even a double one instead of both blocks. This would make it simpler in the future for electricians to work on the CUs and in the house without having to remove the main fuse. Ask him what he thinks. What would you say to that, @BPLightlog ?  Sr Mendez might want to install an EV charger at some point …

In my experience, it’s best to keep the circuit paths separate as it’s easier to follow. (They can use a single block of course, that’s just my preference).

A fault can be anywhere on that 5th terminal connection - including the neutral return if that’s been disturbed. All connections need to be checked, but a simple non contact live wire

detector could do the job, tracing along the path (but only when the overnight circuit is live of course)

Thank you so much for your answers.

ill be contacting ovo tomorrow morning and I’ve got a electrician coming over to check, my question is shall I tell him about ovo or wait for him to see what he can find out? 
I’ll be requesting and electrician from ovo too as they were the ones who installed my meter.

ibe for a question too, if I tell them to put me on single tariff will that make my hot water and heating work? Also if it was a problem on my cpu wouldn’t tripped over? 
thanks in advance 

Going onto Single Rate won’t have any effect. It’s the ECAUL/ALCS that must be configured either way.

For testing purposes however, you could trigger the Boost feature on the meter to energise all circuits at once for a couple of hours - but it’s at Standard Rate.

Thank you!

I’ll see if Ivo can send an electrician to sort it out or my electrician can find out the problem 

Looking at the photo above again, of course it was the engineer who installed the new meter that sealed the Henley block, after he’d connected the new brown meter tail to it. This was presumably just to prevent you or any other unqualified person from messing with it. 

BP mentioned the neutral cables; there look to be two descending from the heating CU, so I wonder where the second goes to? There are two black cables from the other CU, too, but somebody’s put a bit of green and yellow tape round one of them just to confuse everybody. Otherwise, it’s as neat a set-up as you’ll find!

If your electrician needs to activate the ALCS to test the heating circuits, he could activate the Boost feature as Blastoise suggested, which switches the ALCS on for a short time (15 mins up to 1 hr). How to do this varies from meter to meter, but on mine I have to press button B and then use A to cycle through the available options looking for Start Boost. If it’s not there, press B again and then A will cycle through a different set of options. On my meter, it’s on the menu that starts with Credit mode.

I did boost it myself for 45 mins yesterday and today I can hear the click and the LC1 and LC2 appears on the screen but heating still not working an so is the hot water. This is how the wires are connected. 

Are the Henley block the two black units? Sorry trying to work things out so I can speak with support team tomorrow morning. 

That is exactly why the cables need tracking to see where the live circuit stops ..

It could be at the meter terminal, somewhere along the brown cable, in the terminal block, in the red cable or in the consumer unit. 
Alternatively, there could be a fault with the black neutral return

Yes - one takes the neutral (blue cable) and splits it to the two circuits. The other takes the live (brown cable) and connects to the off peak circuit

Me agin! I just wanted to give u an update! I’ve got an electrician came today, and he sort it out in 5 minutes! Problem was in the fuse box red wire was disconnected, so obviously I couldn’t have hot water or heating.
electrian said that while the engineer who put my smart metter prob pull it a bit stronger that it should be…. 

i tried the boost and is all working as it should do!

thank you everyone for your help!

Very good! 

That’s really good news! Next Aha!-moment will be at 03:00 tomorrow morning when you wake up to realize that the heaters are warming up and there’s lots of hot water.

OK, that makes sense. It’s a good job it didn’t start sparking when the power came on; the one who tugged on it must have made a clean break.

I suppose that the ‘fuse box’ is the white box with the breakers in it. That’s what electricians nowadays refer to as a Consumer Unit, CU. There’s probably only one ‘fuse’ in the set-up you’ve shown us, and that’s the Main fuse in what’s known as the Cut-out, a little box out of sight below your meter. No-one is allowed to touch that without the distributor’s authority. The meter installer will have removed it to be able to work safely, then replaced it afterwards after checking that everything was working as intended. 

It sounds as if this last check wasn’t thorough enough - he would have discovered that broken connection if it had been. I can’t imagine why this engineer would have done anything with the red cable except perhaps check its continuity, so perhaps the disconnection happened later. Whoever was responsible, it’s caused a lot of anguish and time wasting and expense for lots of people over the past few days. I bet you’re glad it’s over 

That’s it the consumer unit! I don’t know how it happened but what the electrian said it could possible that the person who put my smart metter pull it a bit out without realising, but I agree with you that it was a hard time for me and obviously expenses from ovo. 
they installed my CU a year and a half ago but they didn’t secure it good enough, when the engineer put my meter it got disturbed and loose the conexión. 
I’m just glad that myself and my two kids can have a hot shower.

thank you so much for your time really appreciate it