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Correctly sizing Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP) - Bigger is not always better

Correctly sizing Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP) - Bigger is not always better
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Updated on 01/02/24 by Emmanuelle_OVO:

Heat Pump Plus add on now available for Vaillant heat pump owners! Find out more here…
 

 

This is a long and quite technical post

 

ASHP fitted – Daikin Altherma 11kw monobloc - part of the BEIS government trial with OVO

As you may be aware, I have kept a close eye on the performance of my system since this trial started, partly due to the bad experience with the first installer (Northern Gas 👎) and partly due to my instrumentation background. I have gradually improved the seasonal coefficient of performance of the installed heat pump from a COP of around 2.0 originally, up to ~2.7 when the system was refitted, and up to about 3.0 now. There is still significant room for improvement but I will need to wait until the trial with OVO is over before I embark on the next alterations (a smaller heat pump, changing a few radiators). I believe that a correctly sized heat pump would provide significant energy and financial savings.

An OVO article online about the size of heat pump a property needs, made me review the heat pump choice for my house. Over the course of the second refit of the Heat Pump circuit I discussed the findings of my heat loss reports with the installer (Reina Group), the first installer didn’t discuss the results at all and would not engage in dialogue. I thought the calculations were too high, but was reassured that heat pumps modulate their output, so if the heat demand is lower than calculated it would be ok. I have since found out that heat pumps can only modulate to about ¼ of their max. output before they have to shut off, so a 12kw heat pump can modulate down to 3kw without much detrimental impact on its performance. Hitting this sweet spot for heat pump output vs house heating demand is important if you want to get the most efficient system. If the heat pump is oversized(see 3/4 way down the article) it will continually cycle on/off (because it produces more heat than it can use and the return temp comes back high, so it turns off), which is bad for efficiency. This cycle happens in my house.

The article on the My Energy Stats website (What Size Heat Pump? - Energy Stats UK (energy-stats.uk) covers the different methods available for estimating the size of heat pump for a property, from the basic ‘age of property and its size = size of heat pump output’, through to the MCS tools used by most installers, and on to the measured heat demand (Heat Transfer Coefficient (HTC)). The HTC method is considered more accurate than the MCS because it uses measured energy data. It determines the maximum heat loss of the property by using a combination of heat in to the home (either through energy consumed, or energy into the house) and relating this to the average daily temperature demand. This method is more time consuming and complex, but can deliver more accurate results. This requires measuring the energy used to maintain the property at the required internal temperature, typically 19-21C, and relating this to the daily temperature demand (difference between inside and outside temperatures). Through the trial we are fortunate to have the meters needed to accurately measure the heat produced, making an easy and accurate assessment possible. My system now maintains the internal temperature I want (20.5C) and a local weather station logs the hourly external temperature. See My Energy Stats halfway down the article for methodology and Science Direct for further details on the HTC method.

Heat demand estimates made for my property:

2 Northern Gas house dimensions are way off, building fabric assumptions completely wrong, house survey completed in 20mins, no consultation with home owner.

3 Reina Group were on site surveying for ~2 hours, discussed some building material choices, but still managed to miss a room from their final assessment. The surveyor said during the visit he is advised to use ‘industry standard’ assumptions for u-values rather than the home owners.

Analysis of heat demand in my property

The maximum heat demand is a worse case estimate that the heat pump is expected to operate under, this will typically only occur for a few days per year. For the majority of time the heat pump is operating to a lower demand.

The maximum demand estimates vary significantly, highlighting the need to invest in this area of ASHP design to allow heat loss surveyors to get the best possible heat demand estimate if significant real-world ASHP efficiency gains are to be made.

Analysis of my 2022 data suggests the high electric consumption days consume about 10% of the total energy used. Central heating contributed around 85% of the heat pumps total output. So, 75% of the heat pumps running time, and energy usage, would be under ‘average’ conditions. This highlights the importance of having an efficient operational system under ‘normal’ conditions.

HTC Heat Loss Data

The graph shows 25 days of data analysed for the HTC calculation, through Dec 2022-Jan 2023 where we had a particularly cold two weeks, outside temperature ranged from a daily average of -2.8C to +11.5C during the analysis, Temp demand from 26C to 9C. This shows a heat transfer coefficient of 200w/DegreeC and the maximum heat demand of the house being 4.6kw, but more commonly through the winter it has been below 2.5kw. The average winter temperature for the area is 6-7C, which also happens to coincidentally be the average for this sample period. The average heat demand estimate is 0.198*14.5(temp. demand 20.5C-6C) – 0.3391 = 2.54kw.

A reminder, if the heat pump is oversized it could continually cycle on/off (because it produces more heat than it can get rid of, the return temp comes back high and it turns off), which is bad for efficiency, and what happens in my house. The maximum output from my heat pump is 11kw, the assumed minimum output is 2.75kw (assumed because I can’t find any data on this, just anecdotal comments from Heat Pump engineers on forums and a measured 4Amps being drawn by the ASHP under steady low operating conditions). You will notice that the minimum output possible by the heat pump, 2.75kw, is above the average output required, 2.5kw. I believe that this explains why my ASHP often cycles on/off, and hence does not achieve optimum efficiency.

4 Typical leaving water flow temperature around 30-35C, Weather dependent curve set at 40C@-5C/25C@20C for majority of 2022 and the HTC assessment period

The above results show the actual achieved and brochure performance figures for a range of Daikin Altherma air source heat pumps. There is a significant difference between the specified performance of the 11kw unit verses the performance of the fitted 11kw unit. This is likely due to the ASHP being oversized and cycling often. The 9kW Altherma is described as being much more efficient, typically performing 80% more efficiently. The 9kW model would be capable of maintaining the house at 20deg at an outside temperature of -18C, by extrapolating the HTC graph. The 6kw model shown would also be capable of maintaining the house temperature at the outside design temperature of -2.2C. The time taken to bring the house up to temperature from cold requires knowledge of the house thermal mass, which has not been generated here but is one possible consideration to think about. Home owners would need to be educated about the warm up reaction times for ASHP’s.

Conclusion

The real-world values for heat loss using the HTC method and the heat meters fitted through the trial show a heat loss for my property as 45% lower than those estimated through the industry standard assumptions with the MCS method. Actual heat loss at -2.5C is 4.5kw vs 7.9kw at -2.2C with the MCS approach. It would appear that the heat pump fitted to my property is around 50% over-sized. The ASHP fitted has been optimized as far as possible but the average heat loss is below the efficient operating range of the heat pump and further improved performance does not appear possible. The only way to improve performance would be to replace the ASHP unit with the correctly sized model. This could achieve annual savings of over £400 per year (calculated when I was paying 34p/kwh, it’s now more so the saving would be even greater).

Discussion

The HTC method isn’t widely used because of several factors such as access to accurate energy usage and a trial period where the house is heated to desired level for 24 hours which is not normal for a central heating system in the UK. However, this method could be more widely used, see references above (which states it can be calculated from smart meter data), and it does suggest that estimates being made for properties are still overly cautious. With further assessment it could be possible to save the home owners around 40% on their annual heating bill if the correct size heat pump is fitted. How widely spread this problem is could be investigated with the data collected through the heat pump trial, taking a sample of sites where desired indoor temperature is maintained, and using local weather data which is easily found online.

For my property, the logical step is to swap the heat pump for a smaller capacity model. It makes sense to add a factor to the HTC method, as a future owner of the house might like to maintain 22C, rather than 20.5C, but an extra 20% capacity would still only require a 6kw heat pump instead of 11kw, and operate nicely within the optimal efficiency heat output requirement for the house. If the trial were interested in extending its investigation to consider this, I would be happy to engage in dialogue for how this can be achieved.

Tagging a couple of people in who might be interested in reading this.

@juliamc @jason.lewis @M.isterW @sylm_2000 @nealmurphy @BPLightlog 


20 replies

Userlevel 7
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That’s an excellent review @hydrosam and well worth a read. It also confirms some thoughts I’ve had for a while which is that the main knowledge base of much of this new tech are the users themselves. 
I can understand that companies/installers want to move on and not spend time without additional funding but it also means that any training initially dedicated to the installation is diluted as users often cannot get further information or dialogue after a while. I believe that same to be true for Solar PV, Battery Storage and other systems so these reviews are key to inform others in the initial phase of adoption 

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Thanks for sharing your thoughts on HP sizing, very interesting.  If I put in my 2 pence I am def leaning toward bigger is actually better, simply because rather than your view of average efficiency, personally i'm more interested in whether my HP will be still be efficient/work when it's really cold, could be considered a critical issue. That being the case, an oversized HP will not have to work as hard in colder conditions and so will both work down to lower temps and higher efficiency. This is because whilst the Spec  for different kw sized HP might have the same min operating temp, an oversized one will be required to deliver less heat and so can drop the flow temps lower, resulting in less Defrosts and a higher COP, a bit like small and large car engines, one is more efficient in low demand cond (Town), the other is more efficient in high demand cond (Motorway).

Therefore a Smaller HP will not be able to deliver enough heat at low flow temps in colder weather, so will have to raise the flow temp, increasing Defrost cycles and reducing COP.

It's also worth mentioning comparing different HP models could  be like comparing Apples and Oranges,  as newer models might just have an improved design and so their  improved efficientcy isn't a function of their size.   I’d suggest to anyone looking to improve their HP efficiency to run through their settings and start from the absolute best case which Heatgeek suggest is the lowest Flow temp you can get away with, set a high flow rate and reasonable target temp 16/17 and just leave it running 24/7 and monitor the target temp. If you can achieve the desired target temp within a few hours then you have prob found the best COP for your system, if its not delivering enough heat or taking too long or you want a higher target temp then put the flow temp up a few degrees and go again.

Obviously the performance will change as the outside temp cond vary but it should be poss to find the best settings for you home/HP/ best COP this way.

It's also interesting that HydroSam mentioned that cycling isn't good, which I completely agree with, but I would also say it depends on when this is happening?.  I have found with the lowest flow temp setting cycling is minimised, and certainly when starting from scratch never occurs, but as the house gets upto temp it should be normal for the HP to come on less and less frequently. This isn't a sign of  a poor system rather it's that the HP heat demand is reducing and that as that happens work the HP has to do drops, flow and return temps converge and COP is at its peak. Then how frequent the HP comes on will be determined by the heat loss factor of the building, which I completely agree is the most important variable and prob differs the most between any two properties. I think HydroSam has done a great job of showing that improving the industry standards/methods for properly assessing both the heat demand (property size and use) as well as the heat loss (U values) are crucial in getting a individual HP system to achieve the manufacturers highest COP performance.

 

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@hydrosam a cracking piece of work. The UK heating installer industry are known as “boiler slingers” for good reason and over sizing is a symptom of poor training largely. Translate your findings across the UK housing stock you will find massive energy savings so clearly Gov should concentrate efforts to improve design.

Userlevel 7

@hydrosam this is now in the public Smart home category and converted into a blog article - such good insight, thank you for sharing. One thing to finish this off would be a landscape photo of your current heat pump. Feel free to send to me directly or upload as a comment and I’ll add this as a ‘featured’ image.

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@Tim_OVO the beast in all its glory

It’s on the side of the house by the vegi patch and we never hear it. It’s also not as high up as it may appear. There is a footpath just below it. 

A short comment on the point above about wanting the pump big enough to work when it’s really cold from @OrphM62. It’s definitely a consideration but in my case the heat pump never put out more than 5kw of heat, even when it was -6C outside in early Jan. I think COP dropped to about 2.5, it’ll be interesting to compare with @jason.lewis who I think has a very similar heat demand to my house if I remember correctly when we compared stats a year or so ago. 

But if you were to operate with a more traditional on/off heating schedule for a few hours a day you’d want a bigger output because you are constantly reheating the fabric of the property every time. It’s a minefield of scenarios to consider. 

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@hydrosam when I get a moment I will have a go at HTC calcs to see how our home 4.3kw as calculated by the survey compares. 

Userlevel 7
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I’ve been listening to a series of podcasts from Nathan Gambling called BetaTalk. On the 100th episode he had on Guy Newy (from Energy Systems Catapult) who’s had a heat pump installed and had his heat loss calculation done by Veritherm https://veritherm.co.uk 

They put sensors and heaters all over your house and measure the actual heat loss overnight (with nobody in it). *edit* also mentioned in energy-stats !! But neither gave cost to do this.

The podcast is definitely up our street, it even tops the Heat Geeks !

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Great analysis and explanation. Very useful and thought provoking. 

Be interesting to hear any experience of what the maximum output of say a 6kw heat pump actually is at say - 5 ambient temperature 

My understanding is that the maximum output depends on the ambient temperature to some extent. The colder it gets the lower the maximum output. 

For those Dakin models at what ambient temperature is that 6kw rating specified and how much does is vary based ambient temperature? Is the variation so small that it doesn't need considering when sizing the pump at very close to the building heat loss? 

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@Jeffus your understanding is the same as mine. Output depends on ambient temperature, and also the running/leaving water temperature the pump is trying to achieve. Also the refrigerant used has an impact. I’ve looked at a few different manufacturers and it’s difficult to find the data, not many publish it. 

I know the Valliant heat pumps output higher than their named output, for example their 5kw unit can output 6kw at -2C outside/

After a bit of trawling I found some info on my pump. Daikin seem to name their heat pumps based on Ambient air temperature 7°C and leaving water temperature (LWT) 35°C. The output table for my 11kw is:

If you can keep the LWT low then the output doesn’t drop off significantly until -2C, whereas for higher LWT, which is how systems tend operate under colder conditions, the output drops. For info my LWT is set to 40C at -5C outside, so the theoretical max output is around 10.5kw under those conditions.

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@hydrosam thanks, that is good to know the information is at least available, albeit there isn't a standard way of providing it which is a shame. 

Have you seen anything about how much the defrost cycles in practice limit the maximum heat output over and above this? Are there calculations made to allow for this?

Thanks again for sharing your practical experience and knowledge on the forum. It will be really useful when asking installers questions i am sure. 

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@Jeffus the defrost cycles don’t bother me much at all. They tend to last about 5mins and don’t happen very often now. 

The challenge is that you will be more defrost cycles under certain conditions. 
1. It’s cold and damp, 2. The LWT is at the higher end.

So when my system was first setup with a fixed LWT of 50C, the heat pump was defrosting a couple of times an hour even when it was just mildly cold outside (e.g., below 7C), meaning the system struggled to get to temperature and the house struggled to warm.

Now I run a much lower LWT, defrost cycles are less common and not noticeable within the house to us, it maybe occurs 2-3 times a day when it’s below 0C. The data will be available within the high resolution data collected on our trial but we don’t have access to that data so it’s difficult to give definitive evidence on this. I can only judge based on the electrical consumption data I have from my battery from which I can tell when the heat pump cycles. 

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Do you have any photos of ice on your heat pump @hydrosam ? It would be useful to compare to mine, which is soon to be tested for a low refrigerant level.

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@juliamc surprisingly I don’t have any photos. It was basic like a light frost. Only once was it frozen solid, like the inside of my unthawed freezer. And this was after a fault cause by the first cowboy installers. 

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Looking at the electricity profile, whilst the actual Defrost only takes 5mins the whole process of the HP stopping, defrosting and then getting back up to working conditions is about 15mins and uses some energy.

The LWT setting has a big effect, dependant on outside humidity and temp. It would be great to have a graph plotting the three variables inorder to avoid defrosts/ improve COP, but I just monitored my HP and if I saw it frosting up, I just lowered my LWT by a few degrees and frosting was far less frequent, it does seem as though a few degrees can make a big difference.

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Any photos @OrphM62 ? 

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First Pic is HP frosted up, Second is after defrost

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Date was Morning 17th Dec 2022, Oxfordshire, overnight temp -3 degrees.

Overnight temp the day before was 16th Dec Temp was -5 degrees.

So the early morn temp when the photo was taken was prob between the two.

At the time I still had Heat batteries so the flow temp LWT was 45 degrees, this frosting was happening every 45mins.

This Feb after my Heat batts were removed and on a night when the outside temps were the same -3, I found the HP frosted within 15 mins at 38 degree LWT but after I lowered it to 35 frosting was much reduced and at 33 didn't occur within the few hours time frame I monitored it.

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I should also mention that I believe the frosting in Feb occurred at a lower LWT than in Dec because whilst the outside temps were roughly the same the humidity on that day in Dec was lower, after a number of cold nights in a row with no snow, whereas in feb we had alternate warmer and cooler days with some rain.

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First Pic is HP frosted up, Second is after defrost

Is that similar to what you see @juliamc 

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@Jeffus I have only just seen this question - almost exactly a year ago. Yes, it confirmed the fact that there was something seriously wrong with mine. It had been suggested that the refrigerant was low when I mentioned the bands of ice (on another forum). Eventually I had the refrigerant removed weighed and recharged. Spot the difference !!

 

Before: low on refrigerant​​​​
After: now full of refrigerant

 

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