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Ecodan UFH and upstairs rads, honeywell wireless

  • September 13, 2025
  • 4 replies
  • 68 views

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Hello group. I’ve had my ecodan for a number of years now, has a FTC5 ctler, honeywell DT92E wireless room thermostat and solar boost. I’ve tried to optimise with compensation curve but there has been something nagging away. The zones were set up as downstairs UFH zone 1 and zone 2 upstairs, which is switched by the DT92E. Or so I thought. 

At night it gets too warm. Very noticeable now we’ve just switched on a couple of the UFH stations (there are 4 separate thermostats, all linked to a central manifold). I set the DT92E at 15 deg C, (so zone 2 should not heat) but the rads are still coming on. It would seem that the UFH coming on, switches zone 2 as well. 

Under the bonnet of the system and I’ve noticed that - 

The reference temp is from the main controller unit only - i.e. the controller in the airing cupboard. The wireless control box sends a signal to switch on, when temp reached, and this would appear to be all run by the 3-way valve. Within the ecodan main control  box, there is no definition of zone thermostats. 

Does anyone have similar experience, or more so, can someone help me sort this set-up out, please?

Thank you so much,

Mark

Best answer by M.isterW

If your system has worked properly in the past then it’s likely that one of your valves has broken. If zone 2 is coming on with zone 1 the valve could be stuck open. If it has never worked properly then it might not have been wired up correctly.

 

It’s worth saying that the FTC doesn’t talk well to third party thermostats so they can only be used as on/off switches. That’s why you can’t see the zone temperatures on the FTC. It you want to control the zones from the FTC you need Mitsubishi Wireless controllers.

4 replies

juliamc
Carbon Catcher***
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  • Carbon Catcher***
  • September 14, 2025

@M.isterW are you able to help here ?


M.isterW
Carbon Catcher***
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  • Carbon Catcher***
  • Answer
  • September 14, 2025

If your system has worked properly in the past then it’s likely that one of your valves has broken. If zone 2 is coming on with zone 1 the valve could be stuck open. If it has never worked properly then it might not have been wired up correctly.

 

It’s worth saying that the FTC doesn’t talk well to third party thermostats so they can only be used as on/off switches. That’s why you can’t see the zone temperatures on the FTC. It you want to control the zones from the FTC you need Mitsubishi Wireless controllers.


Chris_OVO
Community Manager
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  • Community Manager
  • September 15, 2025

Hey ​@markieb1,

 

Welcome to the community! 

 

Have you had a chance to review the advice from our community members above? It seems like you have a good idea of where to focus your next steps. Please keep us updated on your progress. 

 

I’ve also added a Heat Pump badge to your profile to recognise you as a member of the heat pump owner community.


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  • Author
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  • September 15, 2025

@M.isterW - thank you, that is very helpful. Yes, the 3rd party wireless only triggers on/off. I’ve tested this and it’s all it does. Maybe I’ll look into a Mit wireless set. Any recommendations?

It certainly seems the case that if the UFH is on (zone 1), it does ‘bleed’ through to zone 2, especially overnight. Even if the wireless thermostat does not trigger ‘on’. I’ll try turning on zone 2, with all the UFH thermostats off and see what happens. 

So, this issue could be one of - 

  • faulty valve
  • wired up incorrectly - from the main PCB, jumper settings, etc. Not setting up Zone 2 correctly.
  • plumbed incorrectly and radiators ‘back filling’ (apologies for my layman’s terms here)