Ecodan: Fine Tuning and General Solid State Heating practices!

  • 9 December 2022
  • 4 replies
  • 514 views

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Hi,

 

While tinkering with my UFH and trying to develop a control algorithm for my “virtual” thermostats, I ended up here and on other forums and realized I am doing everything WRONG. Shame on me 🤣

 

I have already read up on as much as I good on related topics, watched all the related heatgeek videos I could find. I get it now, low and slow is the game, and right now the weather is perfect to commission the system and dial in by weather compensation curve .

I seem to have got the right temperature down for the current(2-3c) weather and will try it out during the night when it hits 0c today.

 

I am currently also at 4c(it does move between 3-5) of TD between in and return flow.

 

So what I now learned (if its wrong please correct me):

  • Low and Slow
  • Weather Comp.
  • Limit 3rd party intervention
  • Low setback
  • Use thermostats (or in my case smart relays with temp. sensors that shut the valves)
  • Try to at least have one zone running to reduce cycling (if applicable)

 

Now I think I am nearing completion to a degree, but more questions now arose that I hope ya’ll here could help or at least explain:

  • Hypothetically, you discover a perfect curve, that always matches your target temperature @ all outside temps (till heating is no longer needed), does the heat pump then never shut off, assuming that you keep your rooms at a fixed temperature (no setback). COP will be amazing, but what about the actual electrical usage through the month?
  • I have discovered that at the moment, 34 degrees is perfect to maintain my house at 22c and with all stats open thats exactly where my house is at. What happens when I want to up the temperature in the guest bedroom to 24c, the system wont have enough power for that, wont it?
  • What if my temperature demands change, do I need to go back and up my curve. As far as I saw, the ecodan does not have the best control ux so bumping it all would be a pain, is there a better way to do this? Maybe some thermostat suggestions? Is there an option to even do this via cloud (its a smart home so thats expected)

 

So from what I learned and if understood correctly my plan is this:

  • Make the living room my main, “always”(till the stats close lets say when the sun heats it up) open circuit. Its the largest area in the house, has floor to ceiling windows and has more windows that wall. Is South facing so during the day gets plenty of solar heat (even in winter times if its not cloudy)
  • Then use the stats in the living quarters to modulate the temperature as needed. So if a guest comes that likes it cool, he can crank it down to 18, but unsure how this would work if someone wanted it much hotter (hope the question above answer this)

 

My current setup:

ERST20C-VM2D

No buffer

UFH in all rooms - all set as 1 zone

New Construction

Located in North Italy

 

Current COP (why I even entered this rabbit hole to begin with):

None for October (first cold is Nov)

2.64375 for November

2.40 for 2022 so far

 

My previous way of running it:

Temperature sensors in every room report to smart relays that open/close the valves. Since I have direct access to the programming, I dialed in the open/close thresholds for every room, usually about 1-1.2c below is when it opens and closes 0.3-0.4c before reaching target (I came up with these numbers analyzing the data).  On sunny days, I only need heating at about 3-6 in the morning (thats now), dependent on how cool the outside is, as soon as the sun goes up, the living room(main area) needs 0 heating and can last about 30-35hours before dropping again to the ON temp for the stat. The bedrooms are behind it, so get way less sun and hence they only capitalize from the solar heat passively.

 

Maybe theres no reason to go low and slow in my use case at all assuming how low my heat demands are?

 

Thank you and I cherish every tip

 

 

 


4 replies

Userlevel 7

A wonderfully crafted posted here, @zzzzz - full of details for someone in the know to look at. 

 

I’m a heat pump novice but looking up ERST20C-VM2D, I can see you have a Mitsubishi Ecodan - a popular heat pump if this forum is anything to go by. 

 

Our low-and-slow heat pump advocates tend to have a Daiken, as they were part of a trial with OVO, such as @hydrosam and @juliamc. But your questions go beyond the specifics of your Ecodan I feel… @nealmurphy and @M.isterW would probably make up the 4 top heat pump members I can reach out to.

 

I’m keen to get you some first hand experience and following that, perhaps you’d be the person to help the next heat-pumper when they come along. I have a feeling 2023 might see a decent volume of installs!

 

*edit: I just noticed you had ‘Ecodan’ in the title!*

Userlevel 7
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Hi @zzzzz at first I read your post and thought you were being overgenerous to your guests, but now I’m thinking you’re running a hotel. Am I right ?

I only have radiators and they are quick to warm up once the heat pump is running, but the house generally is very slow to heat, so increasing 2 degrees would have to be started a couple of days ahead ! I’m not sure how that would be with underfloor heating, even slower I imagine. If your heat demands are low I’d be tempted to run it nice and high anyway. 24 deg sounds fabulous, especially this week in the UK.

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Hi @zzzzz at first I read your post and thought you were being overgenerous to your guests, but now I’m thinking you’re running a hotel. Am I right ?

I only have radiators and they are quick to warm up once the heat pump is running, but the house generally is very slow to heat, so increasing 2 degrees would have to be started a couple of days ahead ! I’m not sure how that would be with underfloor heating, even slower I imagine. If your heat demands are low I’d be tempted to run it nice and high anyway. 24 deg sounds fabulous, especially this week in the UK.

 

Haha, no its my own vacation property, I am just trying to make sure that this low-necessity property runs as cheap as possible when I am not using it (+i am a geek and I want to dial it in for my own peace)

 

My heating demands are low, but at the same time my COP is terrible. I mean in this climate, I am effectively (almost) always above 5-7c for 90% of the cold season, so reading the spec sheet of the ecodan, I should be punching out 3+ without braking a sweat, no?

 

In regards to it being upped even a few days prior, I am more generally confused how do you live with a weather-comp system that you dial in lets say at 22. If you match it 1:1 to the heatloss, reaching lets say 24 would be pretty much impossible, no?

 

Maybe you are right, maybe running it hot (or whatever is hot enough) would do the trick, the biggest question is, how does the power usage scale to increase in flow temp and drop in outside temp.

 

Running at high temp for 2-3hours assuming it uses 2kwh is surely cheaper than low and slow for 5-6 and sucking 1kwh.

At my current flow temp, which is 32c @ 0c it took about 6-7hours to reach 22c from 20.9c (my setback is 20c for the night but it never got there) and it was drawing 1kwh at those flow temps (I think it was 30 something c)

Userlevel 7

Hey @zzzzz,

 

Welcome to the OVO Online Community! 

 

While I’m no expert on heat pumps, luckily we do have a number of very knowledgeable members on the Forum which I can see @Tim_OVO has already added to the thread, who have lots of wisdom to impart!

 

In the meantime we have lots of threads about the Mitsubishi Ecodan Heat Pump which you may find useful: 

 

 

 

 

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