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May 29, 2023
Solved

Flow Temperature settings of my Mitsubishi Ecodan heat pump set correctly?

  • May 29, 2023
  • 37 replies
  • 12840 views

Can anyone tell me what these particular settings mean please see photo 1 of FTC6 controller (I am still on the ASHP learning curve) - I am trying to grapple with whether the Flow Temperature settings are too high/too low/just right. At the moment the outside temperature during the day has been about 18 degrees, at night we have been having near freezing temperatures. See photo 2 from Melcloud. My system is set to run 24/7 which I believe is the most economical way - low and slow. I have been having the room control set to 17 in the day and I have put it up to 18 in the evening during my off peak hours. if I move it up or down it’s only by half a degree.  My problem is that I previously had old storage heaters and this thing is using a fraction of the electricity that they were using, so all the angst about 2.5kwh usage on this forum seems irrelevant to my situation. With my storage heaters I was using 40kwh a day on May 1st, if which 7kwh was all the other stuff including oven. The Ecodan was fitted on 2nd, and now my usage (total) is currently between 8 and 10kwh a day. Happy days! But I am trying to find out as much as I can about the way the current settings are working, preparatory to the Winter when we frequently have as many as 20 days a month with below zero temperatures.  Snow lying many times between November and April. The Melcloud app is quite un-user friendly. I will go into the settings myself before winter to adjust if need be. I have already changed the legionella settings following Heat Geek video, once every 15 days to 60 degrees time 1 hour during off peak, holding for 5 minutes; that should save some money. What I want to do before winter is set up the weather compensation mode. At the moment though I am wondering what the Flow temperature settings on the right of the control panel mean. And if the flow temperature is low enough, too high, or too low - see photo three where something exciting seemed to be happening at around 2.30pm even though I didn’t change anything….!Presumably the water heating up as it had dropped below 40.

(as per advice on heat geek site for hotter weather).

 

Best answer by M.isterW

The first thing to tell you is how the melcloud app works. It doesn't change the settings on the FTC. It overrides them with messages from a cloud server. So my recommendation is to make changes on the FTC and only use melcloud for monitoring.

 

Are you using weather compensation mode or auto adapt, with a Mitsubishi internal temp sensor?

Are your rooms getting to the correct temperature and staying there?

37 replies

Emmanuelle_OVO
Retired Moderator
Retired Moderator
December 19, 2023

Hey @Cockcroft,

 

I’m glad you’ve found the topic helpful, I hope that you manage to find a solution after some more research!

 

If you do, please pop back as your advice will help others with a similar issue.

 

I hope Christmas organising was more straightforward! 🙂

Renewable Energy? Big Fan.
amanda1Author
Rank 2
January 18, 2024

@juliamc  you asked for a photo of the pump (“Hiroheater” apologies to Hirohito….) in the snow. Here it is. Note the unfinished snow shelter….I have a low concentration span…..it will be finished in summer 😂 We have about 6” at the moment (I clear the front if the pump every day)  and still falling. In November we had a week of -11C or more , consumption increased to about 30kwh but still only half what my storage heaters used to use. At the moment it is minus something all the time and Hiro is doing just fine, under 30kwh a day, with the room temp set at 19C 24/7. Hope it isn’t snowing where you are as you guys down in Blighty don’t do snow very well…..

 

juliamc
Rank 20
Rank 20
January 18, 2024

Hi @amanda1 Lovely !! You’re quite right - we don’t do snow very well down here in the south. The air’s very dry by the time it’s dropped all its snow on you, which means fewer defrosts for the heat pump here. The coldest it’s been is -5 overnight, but the house is fabulously warm, not being as hardy as you we have it at 22 deg - helped by the sun for the last couple of days. 
Your shelter’s looking good, I wonder if you should knock a couple of panels out of the sides so you don’t block the airflow too much, though I imagine there’s quite a good airflow where you are up in the hills. 

amanda1Author
Rank 2
January 18, 2024

@juliamc the side panels are palettes so they aren’t solid and the air can flow. I would have the temperature at 20 for preference at the moment, but I am determined to keep the cost down. It has cost me just over half as much as the storage heaters used to cost, so far. For some weird reason, other people in the village who have exactly the same set up, same installers, same sort of house, are paying twice as much and saying that these pumps don’t work well here. Which suggests that the only variable, THEM, is responsible for their costs. I think they are trying to operate them as gas boilers. I am more and more convinced that timed settings are not cost effective. BTW I couldn’t live in 22C….I would melt!

juliamc
Rank 20
Rank 20
January 19, 2024

You’re so right, although it seems counterintuitive that keeping a hp running all the time is cheaper than having it on a schedule. Maybe it could be compared to only switching on the fridge for a few hours a day but still constantly opening the door. 
There should be an idiots guide to using a heat pump handed out with each installation. I think I might write one !!

Ah yes, I see what you mean re the pallets. My outdoor unit is installed in a fairly enclosed yard so I’m trying to improve the airflow around it.

amanda1Author
Rank 2
January 19, 2024

Heat Geek has a youtube video where he tests out an air source pump in an enclosed space. I am intending to put a roof on my “shelter” - it will be about a metre and a half above the pump - the whole purpose of it is to stop the tons of snow that falls off the roof falling onto the pump. I have a snow guard on the roof above it also. I clear the snow in front of it every day because I imagine it doesn’t do it much good to be surrounded by its own supercooled air.

Jenp
Newcomer
Newcomer
January 29, 2024

You’re so right, although it seems counterintuitive that keeping a hp running all the time is cheaper than having it on a schedule. Maybe it could be compared to only switching on the fridge for a few hours a day but still constantly opening the door. 
There should be an idiots guide to using a heat pump handed out with each installation. I think I might write one !!

Ah yes, I see what you mean re the pallets. My outdoor unit is installed in a fairly enclosed yard so I’m trying to improve the airflow around it.

There is one, ‘Bodge Busters’!

Respectfully,
Jenp
Newcomer
Newcomer
January 29, 2024

I’ve never seen this screen explained anywhere, but I think Hroom1 is your set temperature and Hflow1 is the max allowed flow temp - if you had a two-zone setup then there would be figures in the other two lines as well. The C… lines will relate to the cooling function, these will be default system figures, I doubt you have cooling enabled!

As the outdoor unit and pipework are at risk of damage from the static water freezing and bursting the pipes some prevention is needed. You have glycol added to your system so that will prevent freezing to some figure well below zero, I don’t know offhand but should be in your paperwork filled out by the installer I think. If you only had water in the system  (as I do) then in order to prevent damage the freeze stat function will start the circulation pump when the temp drops to 3, the water in the pipes is likely to be quite warm if the heating has been on and that going round and round just keeps everything out of danger. If the heating was off for a long time and water got down to that temperature then you would have valves fitted that opened to empty the pipes. So you don’t need freeze stat setting to be on.

The hall thermostat is the mitsubishi wireless remote I presume? Auto adaption is a better mode as you don’t have to worry about tweaking how the compensation curve is set up or applied, it will work out the best temperature to output to maintain your set internal temp. I have used both modes and find AA to be more cost effective. Increasing the set temperature by a degree to  ‘force’ the system to add heat into the house when rates are cheap, and have a rest when the rates rise again, is an ideal way to get extra value out.

 

I sent a pic of our DHW to cylinder to world heat cylinders and they told me to change all the pipe lagging to Armacell lagging also using with Insulated tape. Cylinder is in the loft and they said it may as well be outside as the loft in winter is freezing,,so treat it as outdoor. Told us to insulate every single pipe coming out of it, even if its void & not used, as we’ll be losing heat out of it. So weve done all that, installers had used standard lagging..not for freezing outdoor temps..Can anyone tell me how they use auto adaptive mode, where does it take the temps from. Ive been using W/C...i dont have wifi room stats just the FTC controller pad that I assume has  a stat in. I put it in ‘room stat’ mode thinking it would use the curve settings, but its not, flow is like 48,,,my curve is set at 35/-5 and 25/15…. house is redders! but ive read ppl using AA mode as its cheaper, what do I need to do this/try this? Comp Curve in winter is using 60kWH in 24 hrs...monthly bill for |Dec 23-Jan 24 was £374. 17 rads in bungalow, standard insulation.

Respectfully,
Newcomer
January 29, 2024

You’re so right, although it seems counterintuitive that keeping a hp running all the time is cheaper than having it on a schedule.

Wouldn’t that also depend on usage pattern and energy tariff as well?

 

 

 

juliamc
Rank 20
Rank 20
January 29, 2024

@Jenp Without the WiFi controller I’m fairly sure it’ll use the stat in the main controller. Where is yours situated?
Wherever it is that temp will be used as the indoor temp, which is shown on the controller screen…  @amanda1 and @M.isterW have the WiFi controller and are using AA